Glacier Peak winter ski then frostbite and University of Washington Medical Center
February 22-23, 2003
We were finally getting some wintry weather again. A week of moderate snowfall accumulations was forecasted to be followed by a weekend with a clearing and cooling trend, to end with high pressure.
I was talking to people. I was hearing things like 'ski area' and 'yo-yo at the pass.' I just couldn't accept what I was hearing, though. I checked the forecast from the Northwest Avalanche Center, and it sounded like avalanche conditions would be looking workable by Sunday. There had been winds predominately from the west during the week's storms, so I knew a route with westerly exposure just might yield me the opportunity I desired. It sounded like an incorrigible sadist with a heart for powder could get it all on the Sitkum Glacier, and that's what I intended to do.
I called Jeff Manor and he was speaking my language. We decided to get a late morning start Saturday.
[2025] We spent the night in a snow cave that we dug in Boulder Basin. During the ascent the next morning, Jeff was struggling and we eventually parted ways. It was windy and my hands were very cold, but I was hoping that a faster pace to the top solo would fix my cold fingers. No such luck...
A cold, windy Sitkum Glacier
Glacier Peak Summit, 23feb2003
Post-frostbite infection, February 27-March 13
My hands were in my gloves the whole time my fingers were freezing and the pain from freezing doesn't get any worse than the initial cold finger pains en route to fully frozen fingers.
Fingers in a bad way circa February 27
Another view
The next Saturday I awoke to a very swollen finger and a sore arm with streaking red lines. I went to the hospital, where they were nice enough to stick a needle in my arm and pump me full of cool, refreshing antibiotics.
Saturday morning, six days later
The red lines and sore arm convinced me to go to the hospital
Images from the hospital
I spent a night in the hospital and was told that I would lose a significant part of a finger.
Seventeen days later, missing a nail
Not in the best shape, but functional
Less than three weeks later, ready to brave the cold again
Never skimped on gloves again!
Rock climbing in the cold was an issue for another decade. Now even that is mostly not an issue. Although my right ring finger still looks a little different.