Tres Piedras
Posted: Mon Sep 01, 2014 5:23 pm
Had a great day at one of my favorite New Mexico trad crags yesterday with Micah and Dave. Tres Piedras is at 8,000 ft on the edge of the pine forests of the Tusas Mountains, across the Rio Grande valley from Taos.
It's been too long since I took some good climbing pictures. In the approach to and aftermath of Kaj's birth, I've become a full-blown sport climber, too lazy to carry gear or a camera.
Cowboy Bob's Chickenhead Delight is a memorable trad classic, rated 5.10R. I haven't seen any good photos of it being led. I hung my ass off the side of the cliff to get some good photos of Dave leading it.
First it's a good 50-60 ft up a low-angle slab with no protection. Then there are a couple of pieces of pro, probably good enough to keep you off the forest floor but certainly not enough to keep you from going splat on the lower-angle slab, before some face moves over the bulge onto higher angle slab.
Freaky slab moves above marginal gear lead to prime time on the chickenheads.
The face goes vertical, the chickenheads are juggy and there's even a few pieces of protection.
Dave was happy to sling this one. He was starting to worry about the low angle slab again.
Pull a bulge to the ultimate chickenhead.
That cam in the crack is nice and reassuring.
Dave dips into his chalk before an easy slab finish to victory. Nice send, Dave!
Then we returned to Mosaic Rock for Techweenie, probably my favorite single pitch of granite face climbing anywhere so far. Dave getting into the crux.
Keep it moving!
After Dave and I had both led Techweenie, I led the more sparsely bolted line to its left, Techtonics. Then Dave led it too. Remarkably, it's just as good as Techweenie. That was a great day!
It's been too long since I took some good climbing pictures. In the approach to and aftermath of Kaj's birth, I've become a full-blown sport climber, too lazy to carry gear or a camera.
Cowboy Bob's Chickenhead Delight is a memorable trad classic, rated 5.10R. I haven't seen any good photos of it being led. I hung my ass off the side of the cliff to get some good photos of Dave leading it.
First it's a good 50-60 ft up a low-angle slab with no protection. Then there are a couple of pieces of pro, probably good enough to keep you off the forest floor but certainly not enough to keep you from going splat on the lower-angle slab, before some face moves over the bulge onto higher angle slab.
Freaky slab moves above marginal gear lead to prime time on the chickenheads.
The face goes vertical, the chickenheads are juggy and there's even a few pieces of protection.
Dave was happy to sling this one. He was starting to worry about the low angle slab again.
Pull a bulge to the ultimate chickenhead.
That cam in the crack is nice and reassuring.
Dave dips into his chalk before an easy slab finish to victory. Nice send, Dave!
Then we returned to Mosaic Rock for Techweenie, probably my favorite single pitch of granite face climbing anywhere so far. Dave getting into the crux.
Keep it moving!
After Dave and I had both led Techweenie, I led the more sparsely bolted line to its left, Techtonics. Then Dave led it too. Remarkably, it's just as good as Techweenie. That was a great day!