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Diablo, December sends

Posted: Mon Dec 16, 2013 3:45 pm
by skykilo
Well Pete, sorry it's not skiing. Taos Ski Valley was good on Saturday but nothing about a December day riding the lifts makes me want to spray. But yesterday Micah and I had an all-time chillaxed day at Diablo. We left Santa Fe at the aggressive hour of 9:30 am. Micah was on Grape Ape shortly after 10 am. I was drinking a delicious Black IPA from Santa Fe Brewing Company. Grape Ape is a 40 m pitch of 5.10c sport that goes through a couple of roofs. Micah managed the on-sight send and he was amped. I was feeling that Black IPA liquid breakfast. Then we hiked a couple minutes from Winter Wall to the Solar Cave to try some new routes. First I led a 5.11b/c that was classic Diablo funk, found myself stymied at the crux not feeling it as a "warm up."

Then something strange and wonderful happened. After Micah also led the first one with the draws pre-hung, it seemed expedient to try the next one. Hominid, another 5.11b/c that goes through a big roof then a smaller roof above that. I found myself established under the first roof and it was strenuous. But I could see the salvation handlebar another five feet above me. Instead of resting or hesitating, for a change, I thought, "get up there and grab that and see what happens." Well, it was classic Diablo weirdness up there with smeary feet and no obvious downward holds, but I persevered and cranked through it. By the time I reached the second roof, which was trickier, I felt a strong urge to send. And I did.
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Cranking through the first roof on Hominid.
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Above Hominid, the second pitch of Intelligent Design is a striking 5.11c thin face climb on an exposed arête feature. Micah's dad and his lady happened to be walking through the arroyo and they took some pictures.
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By this point, I had a new attitude or something. Trying to decipher the moves entering the crux section.
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There were some desperately thin moves but somehow I kept it all together for another on-sight ascent.
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That was unexpected. Not sure of its origin. But we were both elated to send! I had another Black IPA at the base of the climb and enjoyed the desert sunshine. Pura vida

And here are our artists enjoying the sunshine and the raw landscape of Diablo Canyon.
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Re: Diablo, December sends

Posted: Tue Dec 17, 2013 8:33 pm
by E_$
strange and wonderful

short-sleeve onsights
those pants
diablo

Re: Diablo, December sends

Posted: Tue Dec 17, 2013 11:10 pm
by PeteH
Nice sendz. Its hard to have a bad day with good libations and an ensemble like that.

Sky, send us some snow for Christmas!

Re: Diablo, December sends

Posted: Wed Dec 18, 2013 4:55 am
by teleross
Sweet! Love all the sunshine in the winter!
Been 80 degrees at the beach with pumping surf around here the last few days 8-)

Re: Diablo, December sends

Posted: Wed Jan 01, 2014 5:01 pm
by skykilo
Had a fun day in the Solar Cave yesterday.

First time on Lucy, a classic 5.12a.

This first crux felt very strenuous.
diablo, lucy1

There's a good no-hands stemming rest before these moves to the second crux.
diablo, lucy2

The second crux, above this, was harder for Micah and Jeremiah.
diablo, lucy3

Resolution for 2014: send Lucy in the next month or so here. It felt very doable.

Here are some shots of Daniel sending Clovis Hunter (5.12b) in good style.
diablo, clovishunter1

He actually moved to this spot for a "rest."
diablo, clovishunter2

On last roof to pull before the chains.
diablo, clovishunter3

Happy New Year!

Re: Diablo, December sends

Posted: Fri Jan 10, 2014 5:11 am
by skykilo
A few more Diablo pix

Miranda pulls through a 5.11 roof last weekend
diablo, miranda

Here I'm taking my first run at Clovis Hunter, same climb which Daniel is depicted stylishly sending in the previous post.
diablo, skych1
Got spanked and bailed. But it's doable. Another proj.

Here's a skiing photo of Micah. Not great but not bad considering it's hardly snowed in a month.
diablo, ski1

Another
diablo, ski2

Re: Diablo, December sends

Posted: Mon Feb 03, 2014 7:37 pm
by skykilo
As of yesterday, not wearing tights, but Lucy=sent. One month later, resolution achieved. Guess it's time to start working on Cro Magnon and Clovis Hunter....
diablo, lucy3

Looks like we have a good chance of some real snow this week! Might have to wax the boards....

Re: Diablo, December sends

Posted: Fri Feb 07, 2014 8:26 pm
by DonJuanPakistan
You're a freak. <3

Re: Diablo, December sends

Posted: Tue Feb 25, 2014 5:29 am
by EpiKing505
Sent Lucy last week.... Now we need to work Clovis Hunter!