SkiSickness

Last years obsession was with getting better at slab climbing. This year it seems to be offwidths. I asked Sky if I could borrow his #9 valley giant and other big gear for Pipeline. It greatly annoyed him to bring the big gear on the plane. My next problem was to find a partner given my limited time I had in September and the iffy weather.

Asking a bunch of 5.13 sport climbers at a sport crag is not the best place to find an offwidth partner but I tried anyway. SCORE! Yuki, a Japanese girl, was totally game and super psyched. She is more into trad climbing too. Figures.

Yuki leading the pitch to the bottom of Pipeline - it's da big krak u can't miss.


I was super excited to lead this beast. I was much less intimidated by it than all the pictures I saw online. I'm not playing it down though, it was BURLY! - but fun. I'm weird.


This bad boy made this climb possible: the #9 valley giant. THANKS SKY! This is where the real deal begins. The offwidth is slightly overhanging and then vertical.


I still have some offwidth technique to learn since I only got up two moves and then had to hang on the steepest section. I can see though how once I figure out how to toe-heal properly it will get way easier to climb offwidths. With the #9 cam it made it super safe and I was able to try a bunch of body jam shit. I must say, I love this new challenge despite my knees hating me.

"It greatly annoyed him to bring the big gear on the plane." hahaahaahahahaha, i'm a dumpling!

way to get after it, Naomi! I've wanted to grunt up that thing too. do you end up facing right, or do you switch back and forth? any lieback sections--loves me some lieback.

nicely done Naomi! let me know if you head back up there as I would love to climb it, so long as you lead it!

I did EVERYTHING! The first "easy" section got easy after I faced left and heal-toe-ed up with my right foot while I smeared with my left on the wall and chicken wing/arm bared my way up. I stemmed where I saw features on both sides of the dihedral. I tried liebacking but when you're leading and trying to bump up the cam this is not easy. I'd totally lieback more following.

For the steep overhanging part you have to face right. That's where I moved up on knee cams and then got stuck because I was using the knee to stay in the crack as well as move up. This was only useful for one move so I had to hang to get my knee up so that I can move up on it again. I do not recommend this technique. I was having difficulties figuring out how to use my other leg. With my arms it was chicken wing all the way up that section.

I so want to practice this more on top rope if I get the chance. Steph Davis writes that offwidths are painful to start with but it is all about the technique to start with. Dumpling says she solos 5.11s... making her a sandbagger? I think there is some truth in it so I'm searching for the offwidth nirvana... it must be out there, Steph said so.

Ziff: Just saw your post. I'm actually insane enough to want to lead it again since it wasn't scary. I'd MUCH rather lead offwidths with the right gear than follow it. I hate resting with rope stretch and having have to climb the sections twice.

Glad somebody is putting that thing to use! Also glad it's not me bwahaha....