As is our wont on these gatherings, my brother and I took a day to tackle a biggish route in Blodgett Canyon. In past summers, we’ve climbed Shoshone Spire, a purty darn classic 5 pitch 5.8, and the SW Buttress of Nez Perce, a grade IV (8 or 9 pitches?) 5.10+ adventure route—both of these up the same canyon, which is replete with tall glacier-carved formations. It’s funny: on these climbs, I now fret and worry about the safety of the same dude I once hit in the head with a baseball bat, among other reckless abuses.
Here’s a link to a decent picture of some of the formations in Blodgett canyon; from left to right is Flathead, Shoshone (the little guy), and Nez Perce.
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/107598590
Also known as "My Mom's Muscle Shirt", the South Face Route is a 8 (or 9)-pitch grade IV that cranks up the steep formation known as Flathead Buttress (it’s more like a face), and clocks in at a strenuous 5.10+, Montana style. If I recall correctly, it was freed by Alex Lowe and pardner in the late 70s. The route is plenty sustained, on (reputedly) some of the better rock in the state. I’m always impressed with how my brother can hang onto these routes off the so-called couch of a demanding career and daddy-hood. He’d just flown back from a 36-hour enduro push of work in Singapore, then herded kids (recovering?) for 5 days, before I hit him in the head with a climbing bat.
I picked Mark up at his palatial rental compound at 320a where we mowed through a little breakfast, then made the 10 minute drive (!?!) and were hiking by 4ish. We needed to beat the heat, and the small probability of t-storms. The approach is a pretty chill 2 hours. The route was a good choice for the August heat, as the upper pitches follow a big left-facing (west facing) corner system, keeping us comfortably in the shade.
Pitch 1 begins with some scruffy rock, but cleans up, and requires 5.10 moves on fractured Blodgett steepness.
Pitch 2 pulls a juggy roof, up a brief chimney, then mandates thin .9 moves and gear on a slab.
Pitch 3 traverses to set up a pitch below the long corner system. Mark’s photo.
Pitch 4 begins with a sheer, juggy, exposed traverse on an otherwise blank face, then prescribes balancy .10 finger jams up to a fat ledge. Mark’s photo.
Pitch 5 is the first in the long corner system; the long and intimidating wide crack is easier than it appears, and adequately protects with gear 4” and smaller; 5.9. Mark’s photo.
Pitch 6, nominally .10+, continues to crank up the corner crack, turns two roofs, and just when you think you’ve got it in hand, hammers you with a devious, subtly overhanging wide crack in the corner. I was able to onsight this by applying an incredulously strenuous high-lieback-to-kneebar-to-armbar-gaston-technique; perhaps there are easier ways, but this was 5.11 in my book.
Mark got a shot of the initial roof; aesthetic hand jams through here.
Mark completing p6, well above the crux.
Pitch 7 throws in an awkward, demanding left-slanting crack that increasingly widens and flares, as might your anxiety. Also .10+, not as difficult as the previous pitch, but it is pitch 7. No pics.
The next couple pitches back off a bit, .9ish, but throw in more questionable rock to preserve engagement. We were satisfyingly worked at the top.
Gratifying to send this hometown classic with my brother; we had an amazing day, capped with double-Maker's Mark on rocks at an old haunt (the Ponderosa) en route to celebrating with our wonderful family. Gotta give thanks.
More pics
