A Tuolumne Quickie
Posted: Fri Jun 28, 2013 5:07 pm
Well, this week I ran into the same dilemma...mid-week days off, no surf, bomber weather and no climbing partner. So I rounded up Dylan from mountainproject as he seemed a competent enough climber and was stoked to get on some of the climbs I had been eyeing.
So after getting a whole boatload of shit from my girlfriend about leaving again to go climbing, I was off for the long hot drive up the 395.
Before too long I was ascending the steep grade up and over Tioga Pass and on to Tuolumne Meadows.
The next morning after a not-so restful night bivvied out in my car, I was horrified to discover that I had forgotten my coffee! The Tuolumne Sore didn't open till 8, and as it was not even 7 things were looking desperate. Since I was not meeting Dylan till 9 I figured I would just drive back down the hill to Lee Vining for my fix. Fortunately I randomly stopped off at the Tuolumne Lodge just to see, and lo and behold, they not only had coffee, but FREE coffee! Bon chance! Things were much better after the first cup, and down right fantastic after the second.
I drove back to the Meadows and cooked up a breakfast in the sunshine on some rocks beside the road, and then went to meet Dylan. He was immediately keen to get going, and soon we were hiking up towards Drug Dome. I had climbed Oz before, but it's so good I was down for a repeat, but unfortunately when we got close, we could see a party already on route, futzing around at the crux, and another party roping up at the base. So, we ran back to the car to relocate down the road at Mendlicott Dome.
After a short but steep hike we were below the wall.
Looking up at Wailing Wall...I had wanted to climb it, but the huge roof was soaking wet, so decided to save it for another day
The next climb over is Scorpion (11b) and rumored to be one of the best 11's in Tuolumne
Pretty scenic place to climb!
The first pitch features steep juggy climbing leads to a cool pillar and then into an intricate, delicate crux.
Dylan on p1
Moving into the crux
Tenaya Lake and Half Dome way off in the distance
Dylan took the lead on p2 and promptly began whipping all over the place. Well, maybe he just wasn't in the right head space for leading...so I took over. Tricky slab moves past a bolt to an arching crack...good fun!
Dylan following
P3 is a cool splitter up through and easy roof, Dylan mostly redeemed himself on this one
After Scorpion, we gave one last look at Wailing Wall, and it was just too wet...so onward. We moved down the road and hiked up to Phobos-Deimos Cliff to get one yet another of one of the best 11s in Tuolumne...Blues Riff (11b)...this one being at the top of many a climbers list
Another pretty spot
Mendlicott Dome and Cathedral Peak
Looking up Blues Riff...two pitches of goodness!
Yes there are SPLITTERS in Tuolumne!
Close up...it's steep and it's GOOD!
It gets rated 11c, but felt much easier, the crux is really short, but then it's glorious 10+ thin hands, hands and laybacking up the steep wall...way good!
There were some shenanigans once again on this one, as Dylan couldn't sort out the moves on the easy first pitch. Whipping and hanging, he eventually relenquished the lead. I started up and after some funky Tuolumne tweakage managed to unlock the sequence and got to the ledge below the money pitch.
Dylan down low
Hero hands!
Most rap from there, but we continued to the top.
Dylan leading an easy wild flake up and across the wall. The flake is so hollow it echoed all the way from the end of the 150' pitch!
More Tuolumne scenery
Conness hiding in the clouds
Fortunately Dylan had coffee for the next morning, and after thoroughly caffeinating we were off towards Fairview Dome.
At the parking area we spotted Peter Croft and spent the hike surmising about what he might be climbing.
When we got to the base of our climb Sorcerer's Apprentice (7p. 11aR), we saw Peter and his partner gearing up right next to us to climb Lucky Streaks. We chatted a bit, swapped stories, I hit him up for beta, and then we were all off and climbing. Gotta say he's a really cool guy, full of stoke and a total inspiration! I was stoked! And considered it a fortuitous meeting since next week Sky and I are heading up on a big bad-ass route he just finished putting up last fall.
Dylan casting off on the first pitch of Sorcerer's Apprencice
Mr. Croft beginning his dance up Lucky Streaks. Poetry on stone, and a joy to watch
Dylan high on p1
The climbing on Sorcerer's Apprentice is tweaky cracks and seams, wild run-out knobs, a couple roofs, and a scary run-out crux! yeehaw!
Dylan following p2
Dylan following the crux pitch. The crux is a wild traverse across a blank slab into a tweaky seam and a powerful layback...all way run!
Looking up the "sea of knobs" two pitches of fun 5.8-5.9 climbing on good sized knobs with zero pro
Dylan leading into the sea
Finishing up the second knobs pitch
On the next pitch Dylan started off on some steep funky face climbing, and again, after whipping several times, had to hand me the sharp end. I was starting to feel a bit sorry for this guy...but was stoked to lead!
Cool moves lead past a bolt, then a long run to some roofs and eventually an easy corner.
Dylan moving over the roof
One more wild slab traverse pitch and then easy knobs to the top! What a great route!
Scenery on the descent
What a few awesome routes! Thanks for Dylan for the effort! Great times in a great place!
Cheers!
So after getting a whole boatload of shit from my girlfriend about leaving again to go climbing, I was off for the long hot drive up the 395.
Before too long I was ascending the steep grade up and over Tioga Pass and on to Tuolumne Meadows.
The next morning after a not-so restful night bivvied out in my car, I was horrified to discover that I had forgotten my coffee! The Tuolumne Sore didn't open till 8, and as it was not even 7 things were looking desperate. Since I was not meeting Dylan till 9 I figured I would just drive back down the hill to Lee Vining for my fix. Fortunately I randomly stopped off at the Tuolumne Lodge just to see, and lo and behold, they not only had coffee, but FREE coffee! Bon chance! Things were much better after the first cup, and down right fantastic after the second.
I drove back to the Meadows and cooked up a breakfast in the sunshine on some rocks beside the road, and then went to meet Dylan. He was immediately keen to get going, and soon we were hiking up towards Drug Dome. I had climbed Oz before, but it's so good I was down for a repeat, but unfortunately when we got close, we could see a party already on route, futzing around at the crux, and another party roping up at the base. So, we ran back to the car to relocate down the road at Mendlicott Dome.
After a short but steep hike we were below the wall.
Looking up at Wailing Wall...I had wanted to climb it, but the huge roof was soaking wet, so decided to save it for another day
The next climb over is Scorpion (11b) and rumored to be one of the best 11's in Tuolumne
Pretty scenic place to climb!
The first pitch features steep juggy climbing leads to a cool pillar and then into an intricate, delicate crux.
Dylan on p1
Moving into the crux
Tenaya Lake and Half Dome way off in the distance
Dylan took the lead on p2 and promptly began whipping all over the place. Well, maybe he just wasn't in the right head space for leading...so I took over. Tricky slab moves past a bolt to an arching crack...good fun!
Dylan following
P3 is a cool splitter up through and easy roof, Dylan mostly redeemed himself on this one
After Scorpion, we gave one last look at Wailing Wall, and it was just too wet...so onward. We moved down the road and hiked up to Phobos-Deimos Cliff to get one yet another of one of the best 11s in Tuolumne...Blues Riff (11b)...this one being at the top of many a climbers list
Another pretty spot
Mendlicott Dome and Cathedral Peak
Looking up Blues Riff...two pitches of goodness!
Yes there are SPLITTERS in Tuolumne!
Close up...it's steep and it's GOOD!
It gets rated 11c, but felt much easier, the crux is really short, but then it's glorious 10+ thin hands, hands and laybacking up the steep wall...way good!
There were some shenanigans once again on this one, as Dylan couldn't sort out the moves on the easy first pitch. Whipping and hanging, he eventually relenquished the lead. I started up and after some funky Tuolumne tweakage managed to unlock the sequence and got to the ledge below the money pitch.
Dylan down low
Hero hands!
Most rap from there, but we continued to the top.
Dylan leading an easy wild flake up and across the wall. The flake is so hollow it echoed all the way from the end of the 150' pitch!
More Tuolumne scenery
Conness hiding in the clouds
Fortunately Dylan had coffee for the next morning, and after thoroughly caffeinating we were off towards Fairview Dome.
At the parking area we spotted Peter Croft and spent the hike surmising about what he might be climbing.
When we got to the base of our climb Sorcerer's Apprentice (7p. 11aR), we saw Peter and his partner gearing up right next to us to climb Lucky Streaks. We chatted a bit, swapped stories, I hit him up for beta, and then we were all off and climbing. Gotta say he's a really cool guy, full of stoke and a total inspiration! I was stoked! And considered it a fortuitous meeting since next week Sky and I are heading up on a big bad-ass route he just finished putting up last fall.
Dylan casting off on the first pitch of Sorcerer's Apprencice
Mr. Croft beginning his dance up Lucky Streaks. Poetry on stone, and a joy to watch
Dylan high on p1
The climbing on Sorcerer's Apprentice is tweaky cracks and seams, wild run-out knobs, a couple roofs, and a scary run-out crux! yeehaw!
Dylan following p2
Dylan following the crux pitch. The crux is a wild traverse across a blank slab into a tweaky seam and a powerful layback...all way run!
Looking up the "sea of knobs" two pitches of fun 5.8-5.9 climbing on good sized knobs with zero pro
Dylan leading into the sea
Finishing up the second knobs pitch
On the next pitch Dylan started off on some steep funky face climbing, and again, after whipping several times, had to hand me the sharp end. I was starting to feel a bit sorry for this guy...but was stoked to lead!
Cool moves lead past a bolt, then a long run to some roofs and eventually an easy corner.
Dylan moving over the roof
One more wild slab traverse pitch and then easy knobs to the top! What a great route!
Scenery on the descent
What a few awesome routes! Thanks for Dylan for the effort! Great times in a great place!
Cheers!