Squamish, Tantalus Wall via Milk Run

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Squamish, Tantalus Wall via Milk Run

Post by skykilo »

After sampling the Calling, I had other suggestions for Eric, but he thought we'd be better served with more mileage on "5.11 terrain," which led to a long anticipated turn on Tantalus Wall. A free climb "courtesy" of Peter Croft and Craig Thomson in 1982, the climbing on the sustained pitches up the headwall generally consists of tweaking your way up incipient cracks from pin scar to pin scar.

This is the traverse pitch on Milk Run; it felt wetter and harder than the first two times I did it.
milk-run-to-tantalus-wall, 02

Almost to the magnificent Milk Run dihedral.
milk-run-to-tantalus-wall, 03

Eric finds a rest during his on-sight of the first pitch up the dihedral.
milk-run-to-tantalus-wall, 04

Eric follows the sustained second pitch of the dihedral.
milk-run-to-tantalus-wall, 05

There's some bonus funk near the top.
milk-run-to-tantalus-wall, 06

A 5.8 tarzan pitch along Tantalus Ledge leads to the burly off-width start of Tantalus Wall. After the off width, Tantalus Wall reveals its true nature above a funky roof.

Eric prepares for some Dirty D.
milk-run-to-tantalus-wall, 07

Eric tweaks his way toward the big cedar tree.
milk-run-to-tantalus-wall, 08

The pitch above the cedar tree is wild. An aid traverse on four bolts above the roof leads to a pendulum to get established in ... (wait for it) ... another thin crack.

Making a move up the thin crack after the traverse.
milk-run-to-tantalus-wall, 09

Our strategic 1 pm start let us finish in twilight. Eric, psyched: take us home, brother!
milk-run-to-tantalus-wall, 10

from on the beach

Re: Squamish, Tantalus Wall via Milk Run

Post by teleross »

Yeah dawg! That's a good one huh?


Re: Squamish, Tantalus Wall via Milk Run

Post by naomig »

Good job getting two awesome climbs this weekend! AND lovely to have you two around at my place!


Re: Squamish, Tantalus Wall via Milk Run

Post by ryanl »

Awesome trips you two. That crack photo from the Calling gives me the willies.


Re: Squamish, Tantalus Wall via Milk Run

Post by PeteH »

Nice job. I've sure gaped a lot at that Tantalus Wall.

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