The first trip with Trish was a good introduction, we did some moderates and sampled a few of the spires, and threw in the spicy Entity for good measure.
Jason was game to come down for a few days to see what I was making such a fuss about. We got a bit lost on the drive, but eventually found the right road and thankfully avoided a long, long drive to nowhere through endless desert.
The first day he wanted to get reacquainted with the rock having not climbed on real rock since his stint in J-Tree several months prior....so we hopped on Airy Interlude. Satisfied that he could indeed still climb, we walked down the gully between The Witch and The Sorcerer, this time to hop on Wailing Banshees a cool looking 4 pitch dihedral that goes at 11b. I got the first pitch and after much loose crap rock, and much more bird and bat shit, I had ran it up through the crux to the top of the second pitch, but with wide cracks looming above, and only small gear for protection, we left the rest of that route for another day.
So we cruised up the gully and climbed Bad Fortune, a sweet, thin 11c corner on Charlatan Needle.
The next day we climbed the ultra Needles classic Spook Book. A heady 10dR corner system that runs straight up the west face of the Witch.
Looking up Spook Book
The first pitch is notorious, involving a very committing step up move on a small knob to reach a high bolt. Falling here would result in a long and hard splat on the slab below. Heady. But fun. The thin delicate climbing continues for much of the first pitch, weaving around on a steep slab with some intermittent features...just enough to catch your breath and get your head on straight for the next sequence of committing moves over small fiddly gear far below your feet.
Jason following the first pitch
The second pitch climbs the stellar, thin left facing corner.
I took a good whipper at the top of the corner, ripping out two tiny pieces of brass, before the third one held. Good fun! I was so focused on climbing the corner, that I did not even see that the correct way to go was out on the arete just a bit, using some funky pinching and such and then back into the corner...but after a few tries, Jason finally pointed out my folly.
Once that fiasco was over, the corner continues for another long sustained pitch of thin crack jams and stemming.
Ultra fun!
Jason following
The last pitch finishes up the corner to the top. Great route!
That was all the time we had for this trip, so we cruised back to San Diego and had some fun bouldering at Woodson, and beer drinking at the Blind Lady before Jason had to head back up to the great rainy north.
Still having unfinished business in the Needles, Trish and I made the long drive back up on Wednesday. On Thursday we had a mellow day and climbed a few short routes.
Trish psyched to be back in the Needles!
Sleight of Hand climbs a great thin hand crack on the west face of the Sorcerer.
climbing into the sun
Then I took Trish up her first 5.11, the very thin corner of The Raven(11b). Classic Needles, thin crack, stemming and laybacking with small brass pro. SO good!
Trish stoked
We finished off the day with the sweet arete layback of Gem Stone.
The next day we finally climbed the Don Juan Wall(11b). The route climbs the left facing corner system for five pitches on the left side of the east face of the Sorcerer and then through the roof systems at the top.
On the second pitch crux
Over the crux
Trish following
Almost got it...
Looking up the second pitch
It was very strenuous...this was the only moment of respite amidst the battle of the flaring corner
Trish in the slot
Loving it!
Looking up yet another sick thin needles crack!
Trish finally getting to where the angle relents a bit
Posing for the camera
The last pitch climbs a very physical undercling and layback roof, to a changing corners fingers crack to the top...wow, what a route!
Trish topping out
One last look until next time....
