19 May 2012 Black Peak NW Face climb/ski
Posted: Thu May 24, 2012 4:24 am
A week before this mission, while mushing/relaxing on the summit of Arriva waiting for softer snow, I gaped across the basin at this face on Black for several hours. Deciding there was likely a skiable line, and that it was the most worthy of several options, Dan and I went for it. Here is my poor recon photo of it:
And here’s a better picture of the face, courtesy of John Scurlock; NW Face of Black Peak on left, its western summit on right:
Our first oblique look at the objective had us daunted:
From here we endured many hours of relentless exposure and self-belaying, beginning w/ a slanting down-climb to reach the line. Dan led the way:
And up steep snow:
Then I had a turn (Dan’s photo):
Dan follows high on the face, the exposure continues to defy reason and belief:
Finally, after surmounting the last of a couple old crowns, a mellow finish to the climb:
There were maybe 30 feet of unskiable rock at the summit area; we watch some folks enjoying spring skiing to Wing Lake far below:
We contemplated our planned descent from the summit:
A brief refuel, downscramble and deep breath, then Dan getting us started on the warm-up slope up top:
I followed, then skied past (Dan’s photos):
Dan himmel-schralping up high:
ripper:
Getting gnar:
Funky snow occasionally required jump turns (Dan’s photo):
Dan got this cool shot of me enjoying some better snow:
Engrossing adventure. Still somewhat dumbfounded by the whole shebang—one of those buzzes that lasts for days.
More pics here.
.
And here’s a better picture of the face, courtesy of John Scurlock; NW Face of Black Peak on left, its western summit on right:
Our first oblique look at the objective had us daunted:
From here we endured many hours of relentless exposure and self-belaying, beginning w/ a slanting down-climb to reach the line. Dan led the way:
And up steep snow:
Then I had a turn (Dan’s photo):
Dan follows high on the face, the exposure continues to defy reason and belief:
Finally, after surmounting the last of a couple old crowns, a mellow finish to the climb:
There were maybe 30 feet of unskiable rock at the summit area; we watch some folks enjoying spring skiing to Wing Lake far below:
We contemplated our planned descent from the summit:
A brief refuel, downscramble and deep breath, then Dan getting us started on the warm-up slope up top:
I followed, then skied past (Dan’s photos):
Dan himmel-schralping up high:
ripper:
Getting gnar:
Funky snow occasionally required jump turns (Dan’s photo):
Dan got this cool shot of me enjoying some better snow:
Engrossing adventure. Still somewhat dumbfounded by the whole shebang—one of those buzzes that lasts for days.
More pics here.
.