SkiSickness

Over a week ago Eric Noll and I motored up Shuksan via BYS and a probably new climbing route variation, a chute/couloir that lines the far west margin of the North Face for perhaps 500'. However, "motored" is inaccurate. After a reasonably quick ski down into, then up the White Salmon valley to the base of BYS, we hit the 3rd circle of postholio hell.

You know the kind: kick the boot into a 3-4" crust, and compress, hoping it holds your weight; nope, after initially holding you punch down another 6" or so; shift your weight to lift your other foot, and your standing foot sinks another 6"+ until finding the bottom. It's like you get 3 steps in one. Occasionally (1 in 20) the crust holds, so with each step you hold out (95% false) hope.

When Sky and I skied BYS on his birthday several years ago, we flew up the NF in boot-top pow. EN and I did not fly, we labored. (As I recall, the telemetry showed 51 degrees at c. 5000' at Baker the day before--apparently a nasty inversion had cooked the higher elevations.)

I wanted to explore a potentially ski-worthy line that rises from BYS at about 2/3 up it, and ultimately reconnects to the far West side of the NF (the Anointment route of a couple years ago w/ Alex, Andy, Casey and Sky). So we wallowed rightward and steeply up, and voila, we traded postholing for relatively technical climbing on firm snow and ice. Very exposed and fun moves got us into a narrow chute (this thing needs like 10 more feet of snow before it'll ski acceptably) that eventually opened up into an aesthetic couloir/small face. Travel was...methodical.



We brewed some coffee at a scenic perch in the vicinity of Dansanity’s NW connection…speaking of Dan, his recent stompin’ ground (Tomyhoi, CAN/US border peaks peaking from behind W and E Goat peaks, Larrabee, Pleiades):


then continued up to the N shoulder summit.
Looking north, EN w/ the border peaks etc.


Looking E over Jagged Ridge into the N Cascades


Looking S at classic view of Shukshorn and Bakerwand


Good thing we started early; thanks to conditions and this spicy route variation, the climb took much longer than anticipated.

No way were we going to ski BYS this day—the variably breakable crust did not appeal.

We figured correctly that the North Face would hold better snow. Love this line--always exhilarating. After firm snow/ice on the initial airy rollover, ski conditions improved considerably. About midway down:


Snow continued to improve over the course of our descent


Great exploratory day with both adventure and satisfyingly good skiing in the mix. A few more pics here.

Erik Svege followed our line the next day, and posted some nice pics over on TAY. I recommend our variation as a climb, and someday hope to recommend it as a ski...

I think EN agrees, his WTF? expression notwithstanding:

Bravo, brilliant manifestation of the longsuffering and monomania that are hallmarks of a true academic. You're a gentleman and a scholar.

Ten more feet of snow plus good conditions without a wash on the lower cliffs? Somebody will get it some day.

Good thing you gotta away from the post holing and found some good exposed climbing.
Gotta love that first turn on the North Face. Edging skills or hospital bills.

Again again again

looks like a grand day you two!

academic/monomania, haha, you know whereof you speak. yes, it was a fun climb, will take rare conditions to ski it.

thanks for introducing me to the north face oh so long ago--in summer no less. will be a perennial flavor-ite.

Damn that climb looks rather sporty... would you say nay for a ski?

Nothing I'd like.