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Fluffy rocks in the desert

Posted: Tue Dec 20, 2011 5:28 am
by huevón
We have just completed an expedition in Joshua Tree for four short days and frigid nights, protected only by the lightest sleeping gear one can check in their luggage, and a Lexus with heated seats and a weak battery.

25F and howling winds pushed beyond the 'extreme' rating on my LaFuma Ultralight. An added feature of this bag is that you can watch the moon waxing through the bag!

Cryogenic entombment was staved off each morning by survival pancakes and/or fresh breakfast burritos, followed by a brisk death stroll or car shuttle to the other side of the campground. Each day we were able to enchain several boulderwands in the blinding sunshine without severe incident. Some of these magnificent death domes towered over a ropelength above the virtually Martian landscape.

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On the second day, our party retreated to the village for firewood and a revitalizing Thom Kha (****).

Upon our return my party member became unchained, forgoing the safety of a roped belay. They needed to be subdued subsequently by several stuck small cams in succession in the frigid numbing shade of the Dairy Queen cliffs.

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As the first world problems continued to mount, we exhausted the last of our fresh vegetables, hummus, and SD card storage. We escaped back into 3G range in time to relay desperately awaited word of our relative comfort.

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We will make another attempt, perhaps in a year's time when the realities of outdoor climbing are softened by the salve of time...

Re: Fluffy rocks in the desert

Posted: Tue Dec 20, 2011 6:10 am
by skykilo
Thanks Justin, your commentary is golden and I laughed. Neat pictures too.

Re: Fluffy rocks in the desert

Posted: Tue Dec 20, 2011 6:45 pm
by huevón
Pleasure's all mine Sky! Perhaps the bouldering gym habit is recalibrating my sense of l'extrême. I had repressed these horrors until Eric was able to coax them out of me down at the SBP.

Here are some route notes. We had most of the easy/moderate classics all to ourselves on account of the season and cold.(?) Especially outside of the immediate Hidden Valley area. I rate all of the following: excellent.

Illusion Dweller 5.10 (long with abundant rests; barely able to rap off the ends of my 60m)
Rubicon 5.10 (traverse is easy--minimize rope drag; don't stuff cams into the crux finger slots)
Bird of Fire 5.10- (short and sweet, rap allows for bonus TR of an easy offwidth)
Blackjack 5.11- (fun balancy sport climb next to the road with a nice little crack finish)
Double Cross 5.7 (climb somewhat insecurely into a bowl feature prior to first gear placement)
The Flake 5.8 (thought-provoking chimney/offwidth start)
Dos Chi Chi's 5.10- (involves an actual approach hike, clean patina with sweet belay ledge and slab finish)
Leap Year Flake 5.7 (cool thin flake, approaches a 5.11 crack)
Leaping Leaner 5.6? (insecure start with questionable gear to easy crack)
Sphincter Quits 5.9 (fingers)
Undertow V3
Pigpen V4 (too tired on day 4... crack bouldering, horizontal start, strenuous, lock/jam widths problematic)

I'm looking forward to more stupid monkey tricks on 5.10's and 11's on a return trip. There are several more 'best 10 [X] climbs' pages in the Miramontes guidebook to work through.

Re: Fluffy rocks in the desert

Posted: Tue Dec 20, 2011 9:06 pm
by naomig
huevón wrote: Image
That looks super cool.

Re: Fluffy rocks in the desert

Posted: Tue Dec 20, 2011 10:49 pm
by huevón
That's "North Overhang" next to the Hidden Valley Campground:
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/north- ... /105721651

We didn't actually get on this one as it was quite busy. We did manage to get on the "The Flake" on the same dome at sunset, when we noticed that there was no wait on it while driving back into the campground.
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/the-flake/105721654

Re: Fluffy rocks in the desert

Posted: Wed Dec 21, 2011 1:10 am
by skykilo
huevón wrote:Eric was able to coax them out of me down at the SBP.
Et ca veut dire quoi?

?QUE?

Re: Fluffy rocks in the desert

Posted: Wed Dec 21, 2011 6:39 am
by huevón

Re: Fluffy rocks in the desert

Posted: Fri Dec 23, 2011 10:14 pm
by E_$
thanks for the report and cool pics. brings back fond memories of frozen and shredded hands--'twas just a newbie when i climbed there. (not that you need to be a newbie to shred your hands there.) miss that place!

sky, you can be my guest at SBP if we find occasion to go there whilst you are here.

Re: Fluffy rocks in the desert

Posted: Sat Dec 24, 2011 2:56 am
by huevón
Count me in for any special monkeying!

Re: Fluffy rocks in the desert

Posted: Tue Dec 27, 2011 5:01 am
by DonJuanPakistan
Great writing! Love it. Pics too. Droolmustvisit.