Right Wing starts with a short bit of technical bolted stuff after 70 m of classic 5.8 cruising on Eagle's Nest.
After that comes 60 m of nonstop mostly brutish 5.10. Naomi is about where I bailed two years ago in this one.
The finish on Right Wing climbs an overhanging wall via a corner and a wild protruding beak of rock (left of center near the top of the photo). This pitch is a wee bit like the Sail Flake but it's better, badder and burlier. Sweet jamming in the corner before the beak, too. Really it's probably nothing like the Sail Flake.
I chose Right Wing so it was Naomi's turn and she chose Liquid Gold. It starts with some tricky technical stuff and a hard slab move, then the next pitch is a thuggish corner. The slab move pwned me while seconding so I felt a little better after on-sighting the thuggery but it was funky and the overall vibe for me was still WTF!?
Then Naomi became overwhelmingly stoked when her chance arrived to lead *a real chimney*.
The climb ends with a serious money pitch. 60 m of hands, fingers, laybacks, stems and bulges. I was concerned about not having any gear left and I felt like I was melting in the hot sun, but this pitch left me STOKED.
//END ESPIONAGE EPISODE
