Transcendental Splitter, Indian Creek, UT
Posted: Tue Sep 06, 2011 7:24 pm
Before we begin, a short video:
This weekend was the first time I've had the chance to do some real desert climbing. I had been to Indian Creek once before with Sky a few years ago in a mid-December cold snap. However it wasn't until this trip that I would have to the chance to do some real leading and emerge a shattered man and a veritable human scab.
We took off from Park City mid-day friday and headed to the beautiful Bridger Jack camping zone, just below the impressive buttress of the same name we would later climb.
Upon arrival, we were treated to a moonless sky and an amazing star show while getting tuned-up on some refreshing margaritas.
Around midnight, Sky, as well as the Salt Lake crew of Greg, Kristen, and Zac showed up.
The next day, we headed to the mega-fine Supercrack Butress to get our creek burn on.
Sky climbing 3am crack after I got spanked on it. Note: it is a tough warm-up.
Liz on-sighting her first desert climb and probably 5th trad lead overall on a nice 5.9.
After some afternoon R&R to avoid the late-summer sun, we headed to the Bridger Jack formation to climb Powders of Persuasion. I lead the first pitch, a nice 5.9 hand crack warm up, and then Sky lead the middle two pitches. The second pitch was a somewhat dirty chimney that cruxed at an interesting and fun arm-bar off-width (5.11-). The next pitch was the meat, the reason we climb in the desert: a comically-large corner with an incredibly sustained 60-meter corner ranging from thin hands to hands. Approaching darkness, we decided we would rather not be pressed for time and epic on this tower, so we fixed a line for the next day.
Liz finishing the 5.11 pitch.
Jugging up in the morning.
After jugging up to the ledge, Sky attacked the corner in good style. To me, it seemed much harder than the 5.11 part overall and worked the shit out of me. I cried like a little bitch. This pitch was an enduro test piece that puts ones thin-hands technique to good use. Although being difficult and at times painful, it was an incredibly beautiful pitch that made the climb worth it.
Sky heading up the corner.
After I climbed it, I started to belay Liz while Sky rested and took photos.
Taking longer than we thought, we began to cook in the sun. I then took the lead on a mentally-taxing finish pitch, tetering with choss and wrong-ways. Rope drag became a serious issue as a wandered around looking for the right exit. The heat was intense and pulling the ropes up caused me to reflect on how shitty it would be to get heat stroke on top of a desert tower. I was so thirsty and had terrible crack-lips.
Goddamn mothafucka'! Is you climbin' or what???
We got to camp just in time to drink all the cooler water and pound some ice-cold beers. I've never had better-tasting fluids. We hopped in the car and went to Moab where we ate, swam in the mighty Colorado, and ate again. Refueled and re-motivated, we headed up back to camp ready to send hard the next day on the Scarface wall.
Me leading the short but stout Sicilian Crack (5.11).
After getting spanked hard in the morning, we all left on a high note as Greg on-sighted Black Uhuru (5.10+)
Overall, I had an awesome time at the Creek no matter how hard I repeatedly got my ass handed to me. It was a great learning experience and great company. The creek is pure win.
This weekend was the first time I've had the chance to do some real desert climbing. I had been to Indian Creek once before with Sky a few years ago in a mid-December cold snap. However it wasn't until this trip that I would have to the chance to do some real leading and emerge a shattered man and a veritable human scab.
We took off from Park City mid-day friday and headed to the beautiful Bridger Jack camping zone, just below the impressive buttress of the same name we would later climb.
Upon arrival, we were treated to a moonless sky and an amazing star show while getting tuned-up on some refreshing margaritas.
Around midnight, Sky, as well as the Salt Lake crew of Greg, Kristen, and Zac showed up.
The next day, we headed to the mega-fine Supercrack Butress to get our creek burn on.
Sky climbing 3am crack after I got spanked on it. Note: it is a tough warm-up.
Liz on-sighting her first desert climb and probably 5th trad lead overall on a nice 5.9.
After some afternoon R&R to avoid the late-summer sun, we headed to the Bridger Jack formation to climb Powders of Persuasion. I lead the first pitch, a nice 5.9 hand crack warm up, and then Sky lead the middle two pitches. The second pitch was a somewhat dirty chimney that cruxed at an interesting and fun arm-bar off-width (5.11-). The next pitch was the meat, the reason we climb in the desert: a comically-large corner with an incredibly sustained 60-meter corner ranging from thin hands to hands. Approaching darkness, we decided we would rather not be pressed for time and epic on this tower, so we fixed a line for the next day.
Liz finishing the 5.11 pitch.
Jugging up in the morning.
After jugging up to the ledge, Sky attacked the corner in good style. To me, it seemed much harder than the 5.11 part overall and worked the shit out of me. I cried like a little bitch. This pitch was an enduro test piece that puts ones thin-hands technique to good use. Although being difficult and at times painful, it was an incredibly beautiful pitch that made the climb worth it.
Sky heading up the corner.
After I climbed it, I started to belay Liz while Sky rested and took photos.
Taking longer than we thought, we began to cook in the sun. I then took the lead on a mentally-taxing finish pitch, tetering with choss and wrong-ways. Rope drag became a serious issue as a wandered around looking for the right exit. The heat was intense and pulling the ropes up caused me to reflect on how shitty it would be to get heat stroke on top of a desert tower. I was so thirsty and had terrible crack-lips.
Goddamn mothafucka'! Is you climbin' or what???
We got to camp just in time to drink all the cooler water and pound some ice-cold beers. I've never had better-tasting fluids. We hopped in the car and went to Moab where we ate, swam in the mighty Colorado, and ate again. Refueled and re-motivated, we headed up back to camp ready to send hard the next day on the Scarface wall.
Me leading the short but stout Sicilian Crack (5.11).
After getting spanked hard in the morning, we all left on a high note as Greg on-sighted Black Uhuru (5.10+)
Overall, I had an awesome time at the Creek no matter how hard I repeatedly got my ass handed to me. It was a great learning experience and great company. The creek is pure win.
My hands still have nasty, open, oozing wounds. Can't wait to go back in Oct!!! Holler at me Sky and Naomig!