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Squamish, High Plains Drifter

Posted: Thu Aug 18, 2011 9:36 am
by skykilo
I made a trip to Seattle and Vancouver last weekend. Thursday night, we met a group of friends at Zig Zag by Pike Place Market and had a blast. Thanks for coming, everybody: Naomi, Justin, Will, Eric, Ryan, Casey, Dave, Amar, Dave and Stephanie, Jason and Juya, Hannah, Jessica, Ross, Patricia and Lisa! Our server was amazing.

Naomi and I did some climbing at Index on Friday, but we were pretty spent from our evening on the town. Late Saturday morning, Naomi and I met Ryan and Louie at MEC in Vancouver. I bought a new pair of Anasazi velcro shoes. We were planning on a leisurely day but the forecast for Sunday didn't look as good so we decided to "go for it."

The four of us left Naomi's car at 2 pm, all headed for Angel's Crest. Naomi and I cruised up the first ten pitches of Angel's Crest in under four hours. Here's an obligatory AC shot of Naomi on lead.
13, 00

Here I am hiking with the rope after the rappel, before the fixed line, one more pitch to the ledge traverse.
13, 01

I was barefoot for this fixed rope that I thought might lead to High Plains Drifter
13, 02

The fixed line put us below this burly looking corner.
13, 03

I descended the fixed line and did some hiking until I found the right spot. All told, we lost almost an hour.

But High Plains Drifter is unmistakable. Yes!
13, 04

Ryan and Louie are atop the lower Acrophobe Tower. The north walls are calling!
13, 05

Louie got this shot of me belaying Naomi up High Plains Drifter from across the way.
13, 06

What an awesome, sustained pitch!
13, 07

Leading pitch two.
13, 08

Naomi makes the move from the crack to the arete. The arete, the OMG YES! razor-sharp arete. I like the effect of the flash, but it wasn't actually that dark.
13, 09

I really wanted to climb High Plains Drifter. I'm still elated and I can't wait to do it again, so I can add it to the long list of awesome Squamish climbs I'd love to rererepeat.

We shuffled to the top of Angel's Crest to cheer Ryan and Louie through their finish.

Ryan looks stoked.
13, 10

I hope you're happy with your first trip up The Chief, Louie. Angel's Crest leaving the car at 2 pm, I like it.

After the hike down and around the Chief and a quick drive to The Drive, we enjoyed late-night pizza, then Scotch and Whisky with Ziff until 4 am. It was very good to see you, Ziff.

Thanks for a wonderful weekend, everybody!

Re: Squamish, High Plains Drifter

Posted: Fri Aug 19, 2011 5:55 am
by ziff
Great to see you too, Sky as well as Ryan, Naomi and Louie. Nice TR of HPD, gotta get up there but it is going to have to be with a rope gun. The way Naomi is climbing, she should be ready to lead it in a few weeks!

Re: Squamish, High Plains Drifter

Posted: Fri Aug 19, 2011 6:08 am
by naomig
Right now I wouldn't mind going for the 2nd pitch, but leading the first pitch will be super epic. I'd love to climb this one again too with anyone. Mwa mwa mwa to HPD.

It was also very nice to finally meet all you Seattle peeps, and Ziff of course.

Re: Squamish, High Plains Drifter

Posted: Fri Aug 19, 2011 2:40 pm
by ryanl
That was great weekend! Good to see everybody.
And thanks Louie for the fun day

Re: Squamish, High Plains Drifter

Posted: Fri Aug 19, 2011 4:32 pm
by Alex
Aaah. too much stoke.

This new brace fits better, maybe I can shuffle up behind people without fear of strange knee movements now. hint hint Naomi (I'll try to come meet you and Maddy one night next week).
I just can't hike down, so lets find something to rap on. I love rapping in the dark after a beer or two.

Re: Squamish, High Plains Drifter

Posted: Sun Aug 21, 2011 3:49 pm
by huevón
Way to kill it! You are the cool kids. What's the gear beta on HPD? Lots of #2's?

Re: Squamish, High Plains Drifter

Posted: Sun Aug 21, 2011 4:05 pm
by skykilo
We took triple twos and threes and that was good for the first pitch. At any rate, you want a lot of cams in the two to three range.

For the second pitch, I'd recommend doubles of 0.5, 0.75 and 1.

Go jump on it! It's not to be missed!

Re: Squamish, High Plains Drifter

Posted: Sun Aug 21, 2011 7:11 pm
by danhelmstadter
Ryan makes climbing in the dark look like a lot of fun!

Re: Squamish, High Plains Drifter

Posted: Wed Aug 24, 2011 1:46 pm
by DonJuanPakistan
10 pitches in 4 hours.... Whiskey till 4am.... So many things I like in this field report. Hats off to all.