SkiSickness

I think I'm getting spoiled (Sky's been saying that for a while now) with the amount of long multipitch route in Squamish. I'm starting to think anything less than 10p isn't a long climb. Because I think I'm wrong I decided to tell you about some smaller but great multipitch routes I did the past few days.

I climbed Hairpin with Maddy last Thu. It's a 4p route on the Papoose. She's never climbed anything in the double digits so I throw her on some 10a crack and slab. I love that she's all gung ho for some spank.

This is the start to Hairpin. It's only a 5.8 but I still had my battle at the beginning till I figured it out.


Maddy gets on her first 10a ever and fights through the 1st crux.


She gets through the 2nd crux as well.


A short section leads to the bottom of the 10a slab pitch. I suggested the 10d slab, but that idea got shot down with a simple "no'".


Maddy follows up the last slab pitch and, I must say, she did pretty well. (someone I could train to become a stupid adventure partner climbing)


Then I got together with Jake today and drove up to Squamish again. This was his second day climbing this year and he hasn't climbed in years. I suggested Blazing Saddles but he wasn't so keen on climbing a 10b roof. So he suggests the Smoke Bluff Connection. It links 4 climbs (Mosquito, Phlemish Dance, Jabberwocky and we did White Rabbit). White Rabbit is a 10b layback pitch, so he ended up climbing something harder after all.

I rushed up the first two pitches because the guys below us were annoyed that we jumped on to the climb first - those a-holes weren't even done cleaning the gear on their other climb yet. Jake easily follows.


This is Phlemish Dance.


Jake follows up Jabberwocky and climbs the 10b's quite nicely.


Jake was pumped from the Connection so we agree to do a slab climb next to save our arms and kill our toes instead. By now he's excited that he climbed this and is more gung ho for some spanking too. Soooooooooooooo, we go do Local Boys Do Good by Shannon Falls. It's a 3p pure slab climb rated 10d or 11a which came with a humungus adrenaline rush.

Jake does amazing on the first 10b slab pitch. I felt like it was a miracle each time my foot held and I got to the next bolt. My heart was racing.


This is the hard part. I seem to have cruised up the hard part but all I could think was "breath... fuck off fear... just keep going... believe you're spiderwoman".


The 3rd pitch gets easier. We were both so wired up from all the rush we just experienced climbing this.


Jake is now another potential for a gung ho climbing partner and is now excited about following up more challenging stuff. Yesssssssss! I think I can stop worrying about not having climbing partners for Squamish anymore.

Thanks for reading. Dinner time now.

All that slab, perhaps it's a sign that you're becoming a true Squamish connaisseuse.

Gotta get good on the slab as well. (And my shoes are AMAZING)

I don't know how I did it and I probably would almost freak out again if I ever climbed it again. But it was strangely fun.

Just a few months ago Maddy said, "climbing isn't my thing"... I think she proved herself wrong.

It probably changes the whole game for her now since you're on the injured reserve; she can spend some time following Naomi and by the time you're ready to go again she'll be a better climber than you! A little added incentive, perhaps.

How did you know Sky.... I do seem to have a problem that these silly activities you people do turn out to be fun.

Naomi, take me climbing again

Great write-up Naomi. Hey Maddy (or anybody else)- I'm heading up there this weekend with Sky and Naomi but want to take it easy on my shoulder. If anybody wants to get on alot of moderate pitches, I'm game.

Maddy wrote:Naomi, take me climbing again

Yeah I will Jake just called today too to ensure I was still taking him climbing again next week. Sky, can I throw them both onto Blazing Saddles? You only get stronger fast by doing shenanigans right?

Hey Ryan, you should ask Maddy to climb with you. She's good to go for long moderate climbs.

Probably best to climb Blazing Saddles as a party of three and have Maddy and Jake simulclimb the roof. On autolock, of course, while wearing sumo suits. Be sure to post pictures!

k thx bai!

Hey Ryan, I'm not sure what my plans are for the weekend yet but I would do some climbing with you if I am around. I'm still just learning though, keep in mind