Impromptu inspiration - Eldorado +2 and McAllister Gl
Posted: Sun May 22, 2011 7:48 am
Found out late Wednesday that a mandatory Thursday meeting was cancelled. Unsuccessful in rounding up a partner for sillier ideas, finally settled on a solo exploratory trip and left Seattle around noon Thursday. Had been all around the Eldorado area, but not really up in it. So hefted unusual weight (overnight gear and food for 2, booze for 4) up to the base of Eldorado's E ridge Thursday evening. That brawler J-berg was making lots of noise ("want some?") as I made for less pugilistic prey (aphorism: don't get in a fistfight with anyone uglier than you--though this is subjective). Some crazy make-lovers on this site have skied that CJ couloir on left:
Couldn't quite stomach J-berg's demeanor and the entire feast of bacchanalian proportions that poured from my horn-o-plenty. The views of prettier peaks helped sooth my bloated carcass.
A downright pleasant bivy and 7 hours sleep bested the previous two nights' total, and I found myself on the top of 8870' El Dorado snapping pics around 7 in the morning. Stuff was seen: 1 the Triad has some nice ski lines; and 2 Moraine lake, Forbidden and other Cascade Pass peaks, etc.
The E aspect of Eldo was firm but softening; the more N'ly one was preserved pow. I wanted to check out the NW couloir anyway...but closing on its entrance found icy, funked-up conditions. No pic because I was preoccupied with keeping edges--but here's one from across the way:
looks to be in good climbing shape.
On a climbing trip a couple years ago, took a pic of the McAllister Gl icefall, and ever since was entertaining a ski of it:
The logical summit to ski from was 8400' Dorado Needle. Climbed steep snow, traversed a very exposed knife-edge, but then was stymied only 10 feet from the summit by a sugary cornice/bridge. Enjoyed the ski down the steep N face in initially powder conditions, then velvety goodness of the upper McAllister Glacier until I got to the riddle of the icefall. Was able to ski low on the McAllister, and solve all but the problem of the last few hundred feet to the valley floor (c. 5000'). The topography hinted at a possible avenue further skier's left, but barring that way were pockets of inreasingly deep isothermality and rising temps (it was around 10a). Uncharacteristically, I showed some discretion and ran for higher ground, satisfied with an approx. 3000' run.
The tour continued around the N side of Tepeh Towers toward 8485' Klawatti, whose summit was gained from the SE side--could see my lone tracks on Dorado needle from here (turns out I was the only one up there all day?!).
Tepeh Towers:
tracks on D needle:
Buckner and Forbidden still fat:
more mtns
The ski from Klawatti was pleasantly movable slush. An unaccustomed amount of sun had taken its toll, so I passed on tagging Austera's summit and headed across the In(per)spiration Glacier to collect bivy gear, water and a quick deproach to get home for dinner. While an ambitious person could do this tour in a long day, a bivy up there has my recommendation.
Couldn't quite stomach J-berg's demeanor and the entire feast of bacchanalian proportions that poured from my horn-o-plenty. The views of prettier peaks helped sooth my bloated carcass.
A downright pleasant bivy and 7 hours sleep bested the previous two nights' total, and I found myself on the top of 8870' El Dorado snapping pics around 7 in the morning. Stuff was seen: 1 the Triad has some nice ski lines; and 2 Moraine lake, Forbidden and other Cascade Pass peaks, etc.
The E aspect of Eldo was firm but softening; the more N'ly one was preserved pow. I wanted to check out the NW couloir anyway...but closing on its entrance found icy, funked-up conditions. No pic because I was preoccupied with keeping edges--but here's one from across the way:
looks to be in good climbing shape.
On a climbing trip a couple years ago, took a pic of the McAllister Gl icefall, and ever since was entertaining a ski of it:
The logical summit to ski from was 8400' Dorado Needle. Climbed steep snow, traversed a very exposed knife-edge, but then was stymied only 10 feet from the summit by a sugary cornice/bridge. Enjoyed the ski down the steep N face in initially powder conditions, then velvety goodness of the upper McAllister Glacier until I got to the riddle of the icefall. Was able to ski low on the McAllister, and solve all but the problem of the last few hundred feet to the valley floor (c. 5000'). The topography hinted at a possible avenue further skier's left, but barring that way were pockets of inreasingly deep isothermality and rising temps (it was around 10a). Uncharacteristically, I showed some discretion and ran for higher ground, satisfied with an approx. 3000' run.
The tour continued around the N side of Tepeh Towers toward 8485' Klawatti, whose summit was gained from the SE side--could see my lone tracks on Dorado needle from here (turns out I was the only one up there all day?!).
Tepeh Towers:
tracks on D needle:
Buckner and Forbidden still fat:
more mtns
The ski from Klawatti was pleasantly movable slush. An unaccustomed amount of sun had taken its toll, so I passed on tagging Austera's summit and headed across the In(per)spiration Glacier to collect bivy gear, water and a quick deproach to get home for dinner. While an ambitious person could do this tour in a long day, a bivy up there has my recommendation.