Zion, Tricks of the Trade

Skiing and mountain literature, photos, and innovative media
Post Reply
User avatar
skykilo
olikyks
from Santa Fe
Contact:

Zion, Tricks of the Trade

Post by skykilo »

If you've never seen it, take a look at this climb in the Fifty Favorite Climbs book by Mark Kroese. Schwing!

Pete and I take a rest day to drive to Zion, get our permit, sort our big-wall rack and scope the route.

Court of the Patriarchs: Abraham and Isaac
Image

And a closer look at Isaac and Tricks of the Trade
Image

The route goes full tilt right off the deck: splitter fingers to hands to a long battle to the finish with 4-5" offwidth.
Image

Then a squeeze chimney to draw you into the depths.
Image

Straight sandstone spelunking starts somewhere on the third pitch.
Image

Pete in the Mines of Moriah.
Image

Better not eat too much milk and cookies before the Santa Claus Chimney.
Image

Pete through the roof like old St Nick.
Image

Then comes the CALVINATOR: an overhanging chimney with cracks on either side and lots of loose rock to keep it interesting.
Image

We were hauling a pack full of overnight gear on a tag line up all that. But our accommodations for the night sure did come with a view!
Image

Pete remotivated to lead a splitter fingers-to-hands crack to finish the day.
Image

I had dreams about drinking water and pissing oceans that night. But no such luck. We hadn't brought enough water in the first place and the stupid Camelback nipple came off the hose and wasted some of our precious reserve!

Dehydration couldn't have helped my tight muscles, but nevertheless the next morning I had the pleasure to start another day on another stiff crack.
Image
No need for a sling; this thing will get back-cleaned; we did not bring a mess of #1s.

Holy hand-jam pump, batman! That was a stellar crack!
Image

Pete cruises up the C2 pitch with offsets and ball nuts and other tricks.
Image

The headwall crack is all that. Here I'm pulling through a big roof at the top of a chimney on splitter thin hands. Oh my!
Image

Pete got the perfect splitter hands pitch.
Image

Beware the 5.9 A0!
Image

Do you like it wide, big man?
Image

Pete picks the cherry on top: a killer fist crack!
Image
I was proud to send it on top rope. I got up in there on bomber stacked hands. Then a few moves on desperate cupped hands. Then a fisting like I've never had!

WOW WHAT A ROUTE! THANKS JOHN MIDDENDORF AND COMPANY! I WANT TO CLIMB AT ZION AGAIN RIGHT NOW! I'M SO SANDSTONED I CAN'T THINK STRAIGHT!

danhelmstadter
voluntary admission

Re: Zion, Tricks of the Trade

Post by danhelmstadter »

fkna fellas! thats some wicked stoke!

PeteH

Re: Zion, Tricks of the Trade

Post by PeteH »

Thanks again Sky, that was killer!

ryanl

Re: Zion, Tricks of the Trade

Post by ryanl »

looks like you got some good use out of those carhartt's! Way to go you two.

User avatar
skykilo
olikyks
from Santa Fe
Contact:

Re: Zion, Tricks of the Trade

Post by skykilo »

That route actually put a hole in the extra layer on one knee!

ziff

Re: Zion, Tricks of the Trade

Post by ziff »

awesome!!!!!

man, I do miss sandstone chimneys.

Post Reply