Squamish, Vitus-No Saints Left Linkup
Posted: Tue Jul 06, 2010 6:48 am
Alex and I sampled an Apron mashup on Saturday.
I wanted to do a linkup McLane's guide calls "Integrator" but, so early in the morning (11:30 am?), I found dirty friction above a bolt so close to the deck to my distaste, so we started via St Vitus Dance.
Alex on the fun finger corner, "St Vitus Extra"?
Alex was wearing some sporto kicks and doing a Gaston-chicken wing thing from here to Beijing.
You like that!?
Then came a really fun crack-to-bolted-bulge pitch on No Saints Left.
I may have given some faulty beta to three very nice people from Calgary. I hope they didn't rappel to their deaths. No, really. But I was too busy enjoying Karen's Math to worry about it much. Until Alex tried to tell me my favorite TCU was lost in the flake. It wasn't. I easily retrieved it. He called it a number two. If only he knew the number two, he could have hand jammed the blocky start and not taken my little friend for a walk. But really Alex, you did great and I was happy to be on Squamish crack.
The beginning of Memorial Crack felt stiff for me again. Oh well. Still a fun pitch.
Apron walkoff!
I wanted to do a linkup McLane's guide calls "Integrator" but, so early in the morning (11:30 am?), I found dirty friction above a bolt so close to the deck to my distaste, so we started via St Vitus Dance.
Alex on the fun finger corner, "St Vitus Extra"?
Alex was wearing some sporto kicks and doing a Gaston-chicken wing thing from here to Beijing.
You like that!?
Then came a really fun crack-to-bolted-bulge pitch on No Saints Left.
I may have given some faulty beta to three very nice people from Calgary. I hope they didn't rappel to their deaths. No, really. But I was too busy enjoying Karen's Math to worry about it much. Until Alex tried to tell me my favorite TCU was lost in the flake. It wasn't. I easily retrieved it. He called it a number two. If only he knew the number two, he could have hand jammed the blocky start and not taken my little friend for a walk. But really Alex, you did great and I was happy to be on Squamish crack.
The beginning of Memorial Crack felt stiff for me again. Oh well. Still a fun pitch.
Apron walkoff!
