A week before this mission, while mushing/relaxing on the summit of Arriva waiting for softer snow, I gaped across the basin at this face on Black for several hours. Deciding there was likely a skiable line, and that it was the most worthy of several options, Dan and I went for it. Here is my poor recon photo of it:
And here’s a better picture of the face, courtesy of John Scurlock; NW Face of Black Peak on left, its western summit on right:
Our first oblique look at the objective had us daunted:
From here we endured many hours of relentless exposure and self-belaying, beginning w/ a slanting down-climb to reach the line. Dan led the way:
And up steep snow:
Then I had a turn (Dan’s photo):
Dan follows high on the face, the exposure continues to defy reason and belief:
Finally, after surmounting the last of a couple old crowns, a mellow finish to the climb:
There were maybe 30 feet of unskiable rock at the summit area; we watch some folks enjoying spring skiing to Wing Lake far below:
We contemplated our planned descent from the summit:
A brief refuel, downscramble and deep breath, then Dan getting us started on the warm-up slope up top:
I followed, then skied past (Dan’s photos):
Dan himmel-schralping up high:
ripper:
Getting gnar:
Funky snow occasionally required jump turns (Dan’s photo):
Dan got this cool shot of me enjoying some better snow:
Engrossing adventure. Still somewhat dumbfounded by the whole shebang—one of those buzzes that lasts for days.
More pics here.
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19 May 2012 Black Peak NW Face climb/ski
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- imminent whippage
19 May 2012 Black Peak NW Face climb/ski
Last edited by E_$ on Thu May 24, 2012 7:45 am, edited 1 time in total.
- skykilo
- olikyks
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Re: 19 May 2012 Black Peak NW Face climb/ski
Your recon photo is not poor by my standards. Wicked sick yo. Thanks for keeping the name of my website legit. Now I'll post some climbing shit.
Re: 19 May 2012 Black Peak NW Face climb/ski
Bad ass, E-money. Are those Stubai ultralight crampons you're wearing there?
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- imminent whippage
Re: 19 May 2012 Black Peak NW Face climb/ski
hey kcmb, yes indeed the stubai's...they were sufficient, but something w/ steel front-points prob would've been better. and anti-balling plates! pita!
so overstoked by that trip, it might be time to hang up the skis and start thinking about rock...
so overstoked by that trip, it might be time to hang up the skis and start thinking about rock...