Sandias clmbs
Posted: Mon May 19, 2014 4:08 am
There have been several trips to the Sandias since I posted anything here.
Had a nice day up there in the middle of February. Here is a shot of Micah at the crux of Great Escape, a classic pitch of 5.10c. Ross led this one while he was here.
Later that day I "almost" on-sighted Western Justice, a long classic pitch of 5.11a that felt plenty sustained and/or sandbagged to me.
George and I had another great trip to Pino Wall in late February to climb Parallel Universe, a full value four-pitch route with a 5.12b crux. Here George follows the wandering, long, engaging, sometimes heady first pitch.
Apparently the photos of the crux and higher parts of the route were accidentally deleted. Either that or I didn't take them. Wicked route, though.
Yesterday George and I hit Raven Steals the Sun, an 800 ft route that goes at 5.12a and is überclassic Sandias steeze.
Based on swapping leads and George leading the first (crux) pitch, he was my ropegun. First pitch is the crux. Four double rope rappels down the cliff, clip three pitons then get into some sustained thin 5.12a -- if I return to lead this, then I will very likely make some pre-placements.
I led the second pitch, 200 ft of funky 5.9 with 30 ft runouts and big scary loose blocks.
Then George led the third pitch, which features some routefinding and funky 5.11c moves above a piton. This is the start up a decent hand crack.
Which left me with the most straightforward pitch of the whole climb, 100 ft of 5.10+ involving a traverse under a roof followed by a fun dihedral.
George led our escape on a very sustained wandery pitch of thin 5.11+. Here he is near the end of the difficulties.
Good times in the Sandias!
Had a nice day up there in the middle of February. Here is a shot of Micah at the crux of Great Escape, a classic pitch of 5.10c. Ross led this one while he was here.
Later that day I "almost" on-sighted Western Justice, a long classic pitch of 5.11a that felt plenty sustained and/or sandbagged to me.
George and I had another great trip to Pino Wall in late February to climb Parallel Universe, a full value four-pitch route with a 5.12b crux. Here George follows the wandering, long, engaging, sometimes heady first pitch.
Apparently the photos of the crux and higher parts of the route were accidentally deleted. Either that or I didn't take them. Wicked route, though.
Yesterday George and I hit Raven Steals the Sun, an 800 ft route that goes at 5.12a and is überclassic Sandias steeze.
Based on swapping leads and George leading the first (crux) pitch, he was my ropegun. First pitch is the crux. Four double rope rappels down the cliff, clip three pitons then get into some sustained thin 5.12a -- if I return to lead this, then I will very likely make some pre-placements.
I led the second pitch, 200 ft of funky 5.9 with 30 ft runouts and big scary loose blocks.
Then George led the third pitch, which features some routefinding and funky 5.11c moves above a piton. This is the start up a decent hand crack.
Which left me with the most straightforward pitch of the whole climb, 100 ft of 5.10+ involving a traverse under a roof followed by a fun dihedral.
George led our escape on a very sustained wandery pitch of thin 5.11+. Here he is near the end of the difficulties.
Good times in the Sandias!