Parallel Passages and Right Wing

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Parallel Passages and Right Wing

Postby ryanl » Fri Aug 02, 2013 12:36 am

E$ and I had fun last weekend testing out my new pipe. I've been hesitant to stress my arm too much, but some success on a few pitches at Murrin on Friday had me wanting more. It's amazing what A Little Testis and a Reacharound can do. So we found a 10 pitch moderate for Saturday on Zodiac Wall, Parallel Passages.

The route starts off with a few pitches of squamish scrub climbing before getting good on pitch 3.

Eric on pitch 1:
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and following pitch 2 with proper earnestness:

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The start of pitch 3:

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Pitch 4 was more of belay relocation pitch along Astro ledge to get in position for the really fun climbing on pitch 5. Climb the 4", step out onto the face of the column past an A0/5.12 bolt ladder and keep going.

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Eric styled it. But he always does

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Pitch 6 was sweet. A low angle finger crack into a full chimney.

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Pitch 7 was a glorious 50m pitch of solid 10b. For some reason I forgot to take photos. Maybe because I was getting tired. The rest of the climb was super fun though. It seemed to take all sorts of techniques. Managed to get this one of pitch 9:

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On sunday we woke up and decided that Right Wing would be a nice way to cool down from the most climbing I've done in a year. Hah! Mistake. I lead the Bird's of Prey crack in a single pitch and felt great, and also led the short 3rd pitch without any trouble. Then E$ took over and except for misreading the Fillibuster down low, managed to style that sucker with a single hang over the two pitches. Here's Eric getting all up in there but in the wrong way.

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I on the other hand tanked. Hard. I tried to lead the upper right finish on the last pitch but after pitching muliple times handed over the reigns to $. Not surprisingly, he styled it.

Woke up Monday morning feeling like I'd been in a car wreck. Seems like every time I hang out with Wehrly I end up hurting. Probably why I love him so. Thanks $!

Great to see you and Naomi, Sky. And congrats again on Freeway!
ryanl
 

Re: Parallel Passages and Right Wing

Postby DonJuanPakistan » Fri Aug 02, 2013 6:25 am

Awesome! So stoked for you Ryan. May bad luck recede into your rearview mirror as you cruise down the highway in a Ford Escort wagon convertible, wind in your hair, splittar on the horizon.
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DonJuanPakistan
Trippin' travellin'.
 
from Seattle, Washington

Re: Parallel Passages and Right Wing

Postby skykilo » Fri Aug 02, 2013 9:49 am

Parallel Passages looks fun.

Right Wing is a burly 5.10 climb! I'm going to edit your sideways photos later....

Great to see you guys at the Howe Sound Brewery. Hopefully we can have a wall party next time. Three weeks from today?
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skykilo
olikyks
 
from Santa Fe

Re: Parallel Passages and Right Wing

Postby E_$ » Fri Aug 02, 2013 10:52 am

DJP, you crack me up.

Sweet shots and narrative, Ryan--thanks. That was one fun, packed weekend+ of climbing, feels so good to ratchet up the the pitches/approach-mileage ratio for a change. Amazed at your recovery, and fortitude. That Little Testis route Up Among (Above?) the Firs comes recommended.

For those interested in PP, yes the upper pitches are the fantastic rock you expect from higher on the Zodiac--and the unpictured p 7 is incredible, a v long and sustained Breakfast of Champions.

Was pretty bummed about misreading the Fillibuster down low--musta been tired--shoulda done what DonJuan and I did on Index's Dr Sniff and the T-boaters: thrutch/crawl up a bit, place a piece, back down and then fire the lieback. Damnit! Great climb, and that 10c (middle/right) finish to Right Wing is one fantastic stretch.

Yeah, great to see Naomi and the lizard-goose. Envious of your Freeway send--looks fantastic. Wall party sounds great, perhaps I'll join you guys when I get back from MT circa 25/26th.
E_$
imminent whippage
 

Re: Parallel Passages and Right Wing

Postby skykilo » Fri Aug 02, 2013 10:38 pm

I don't feel like your photo should be edited. Now I just feel like a presumptuous WANG.

Easy to get in there the wrong way at that part. Just lieback and giv'er!
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skykilo
olikyks
 
from Santa Fe

Re: Parallel Passages and Right Wing

Postby ryanl » Sat Aug 03, 2013 9:12 am

I thought about rotating it, but in the name of realism i left it. That's view looking up from the belay.

I've been trying to remember what happened when you and i tried it. Did we rap off pro? I remember going up after you'd come down, and trying to get some gear back, but my mind goes blank blank after that.

Wall party sounds good. I'm in.
ryanl
 

Re: Parallel Passages and Right Wing

Postby skykilo » Sat Aug 03, 2013 9:28 am

When you and I did it we bailed off nuts. When I did it with Naomi it still took me a while to stop trying wide techniques and giv'er.

Tell Eric to quit taking a nap and get going with the lieback there... and twerk it.

Not sure I understand: DID YOU OR DID YOU NOT FINISH ON THE BEAK!? That thing is so awesome. This:
Image
The beak of rock that portrudes, pointing leftward, "What's Left."
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skykilo
olikyks
 
from Santa Fe

Re: Parallel Passages and Right Wing

Postby ryanl » Sat Aug 03, 2013 10:14 am

Beak pitch looked fun, but the one we did was fantastic. Especially since it was so different than the rest of the route. Solid, sustained, and STEEP finger locks for the whole pitch. Plus a super balancy transition into the crack above a slight overhang and your last piece of pro. That's where I kept whipping.

last pitch.jpg


$ figured it out after I took the photo and went into full lay back mode
ryanl
 

Re: Parallel Passages and Right Wing

Postby naomig » Thu Aug 08, 2013 9:05 pm

Great climbing guys and great to meet you too even though it was brief! I was out climbing again today and I just can't get enough of Squamish. We climbed on the Slhanay too.
naomig
naomig
 


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