Squamish, Polaris
- skykilo
- olikyks
- from Santa Fe
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Squamish, Polaris
Salutations from a relaxing day in Vancouver! Yesterday Naomi and I climbed Polaris at Squamish. It felt "full value." We implemented our standard crack-of-noon start.
My first lead, pitch 2, wet 5.11c felt very burly. Maybe it was more moist than wet but it was fully wet by my high desert standards.
Pitch 4 is a 40-m bolted crack, primarily off-width but transitioning to squeeze then chimney near the end. I heartily approve of the bolts. They were far enough apart in places that I still got my special off-width feeling.
It ends as a legitimate birthing pitch.
I felt like a ninja after the ninja move on pitch 6.
These really are perfect hero hands.
Naomi led pitch 7: 55 m, mostly a stellar crack, then finishing with traversing moves where all the holds are in kitty litter, to a beached whale maneuver.
Then there is a long pitch of balancy thin face and slab moves to "The Roof."
Naomi follows the thin stuff.
Pitch 8 has a classic squamish finish: hugging some trees along a ledge traverse.
Naomi prepares to lead the crux pitch, exhibiting immaculate hair and side cleavage with lovely Howe Sound light in the background.
The final pitch was not quite a gimme and ended with a mandatory belly flop.
Some wet, some dirty, but all around a very good route.
My first lead, pitch 2, wet 5.11c felt very burly. Maybe it was more moist than wet but it was fully wet by my high desert standards.
Pitch 4 is a 40-m bolted crack, primarily off-width but transitioning to squeeze then chimney near the end. I heartily approve of the bolts. They were far enough apart in places that I still got my special off-width feeling.
It ends as a legitimate birthing pitch.
I felt like a ninja after the ninja move on pitch 6.
These really are perfect hero hands.
Naomi led pitch 7: 55 m, mostly a stellar crack, then finishing with traversing moves where all the holds are in kitty litter, to a beached whale maneuver.
Then there is a long pitch of balancy thin face and slab moves to "The Roof."
Naomi follows the thin stuff.
Pitch 8 has a classic squamish finish: hugging some trees along a ledge traverse.
Naomi prepares to lead the crux pitch, exhibiting immaculate hair and side cleavage with lovely Howe Sound light in the background.
The final pitch was not quite a gimme and ended with a mandatory belly flop.
Some wet, some dirty, but all around a very good route.
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- TeleRoss
- from on the beach
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Re: Squamish, Polaris
Looks pretty sweet!
...but gawd dayum, that sure is a lot of trees up in there.
...but gawd dayum, that sure is a lot of trees up in there.
- Diamond Dachshund
- from The Future
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Re: Squamish, Polaris
Side cleave is necessary for wet and dirty crux pitches.
- DonJuanPakistan
- Trippin' travellin'.
- from Seattle, Washington
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Re: Squamish, Polaris
What was this thread about again?
- huevón
- are we there yet?
- from el mundo
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- skykilo
- olikyks
- from Santa Fe
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Re: Squamish, Polaris
My helmet is in the trunk of my car, which is in the parking garage at ABQ. It's been nearly a year since the helmet has left my car. Maybe somebody will steal it.
The roof: yes, the route pulls the roof. There is a funky move getting established but the moves pulling past the lip have nice jugs.
The roof: yes, the route pulls the roof. There is a funky move getting established but the moves pulling past the lip have nice jugs.
- huevón
- are we there yet?
- from el mundo
- Contact:
Re: Squamish, Polaris
Pulling that huge roof on a big trad climb must be pretty awesome!
My point was more like it looks like you were pretty safe from rockfall in your cool man cave there
My point was more like it looks like you were pretty safe from rockfall in your cool man cave there
- skykilo
- olikyks
- from Santa Fe
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Re: Squamish, Polaris
The roof on Polaris is fully bolted. The roof on Freeway is bigger and the moves through the roof are all gear-protected!
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- MommaShoe
Re: Squamish, Polaris
I can't help but get excited when I see these pictures. I want to be up there hanging off the side of a mountain!!!!!!! Guess I need to increase my weight lifing so I will be strong enough to do it! YES