Squamish, Polaris

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skykilo
olikyks
from Santa Fe
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Squamish, Polaris

Post by skykilo »

Salutations from a relaxing day in Vancouver! Yesterday Naomi and I climbed Polaris at Squamish. It felt "full value." We implemented our standard crack-of-noon start.

My first lead, pitch 2, wet 5.11c felt very burly. Maybe it was more moist than wet but it was fully wet by my high desert standards.
polaris, p2

Pitch 4 is a 40-m bolted crack, primarily off-width but transitioning to squeeze then chimney near the end. I heartily approve of the bolts. They were far enough apart in places that I still got my special off-width feeling.
polaris, p4start

It ends as a legitimate birthing pitch.
polaris, p4end

I felt like a ninja after the ninja move on pitch 6.
polaris, ninjamove

These really are perfect hero hands.
polaris, perfecthands

Naomi led pitch 7: 55 m, mostly a stellar crack, then finishing with traversing moves where all the holds are in kitty litter, to a beached whale maneuver.
polaris, crawl

Then there is a long pitch of balancy thin face and slab moves to "The Roof."
polaris, p8

Naomi follows the thin stuff.
polaris, thinfaceandslab

Pitch 8 has a classic squamish finish: hugging some trees along a ledge traverse.
polaris, squamishclassic

Naomi prepares to lead the crux pitch, exhibiting immaculate hair and side cleavage with lovely Howe Sound light in the background.
polaris, cruxlead

The final pitch was not quite a gimme and ended with a mandatory belly flop.

Some wet, some dirty, but all around a very good route.

teleross
TeleRoss
from on the beach
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Re: Squamish, Polaris

Post by teleross »

Looks pretty sweet!
...but gawd dayum, that sure is a lot of trees up in there.

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Diamond Dachshund
from The Future
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Re: Squamish, Polaris

Post by Diamond Dachshund »

Side cleave is necessary for wet and dirty crux pitches.

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DonJuanPakistan
Trippin' travellin'.
from Seattle, Washington
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Re: Squamish, Polaris

Post by DonJuanPakistan »

What was this thread about again?

naomig
naomig

Re: Squamish, Polaris

Post by naomig »

It's actually about our gun show.

E_$
imminent whippage

Re: Squamish, Polaris

Post by E_$ »

LOLlygaggers

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huevón
are we there yet?
from el mundo
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Re: Squamish, Polaris

Post by huevón »

U guys are having too much fun! Do you actually climb that huge roof?

Nice helmet btw! :D
skykilo wrote:polaris, crawl

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skykilo
olikyks
from Santa Fe
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Re: Squamish, Polaris

Post by skykilo »

My helmet is in the trunk of my car, which is in the parking garage at ABQ. It's been nearly a year since the helmet has left my car. Maybe somebody will steal it.

The roof: yes, the route pulls the roof. There is a funky move getting established but the moves pulling past the lip have nice jugs.

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huevón
are we there yet?
from el mundo
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Re: Squamish, Polaris

Post by huevón »

Pulling that huge roof on a big trad climb must be pretty awesome!
My point was more like it looks like you were pretty safe from rockfall in your cool man cave there

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skykilo
olikyks
from Santa Fe
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Re: Squamish, Polaris

Post by skykilo »

The roof on Polaris is fully bolted. The roof on Freeway is bigger and the moves through the roof are all gear-protected!

jsjue
MommaShoe

Re: Squamish, Polaris

Post by jsjue »

I can't help but get excited when I see these pictures. I want to be up there hanging off the side of a mountain!!!!!!! Guess I need to increase my weight lifing so I will be strong enough to do it! YES

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