13 Jul 2013 - Mt Terror, Central Buttress of South Face

Skiing and mountain literature, photos, and innovative media
Post Reply
E_$
imminent whippage

13 Jul 2013 - Mt Terror, Central Buttress of South Face

Post by E_$ »

After a hiatus, thoroughly spamming this board. Rolf and I climbed this (likely) new route last weekend, provisional name = Fear and Loathing. Grade III (approx 6 pitches; we did 5 1/2 with a 70m), 5.9 adventure climbing on mostly solid (and well featured) Skagit gneiss. It fit--as an active rest day--into a grander 4-day scheme of approach/active rest/big objective/deproach. The big objective turned us back, but we'll always have Terror. And loathing.

After the most enjoyable and casual 6.5 hour approach (it's an acquired taste) to our camp near the Chopping Block, we could look across lovely Crescent Creek basin at Mt Terror. Hard tellin' not knowin', a route up the face sure looked improbable. We took a casual approach, waiting for the sun to get on the rock (frosty night), and weighed a number of potential routes. The most viable options appeared to be the butresses on the left, center, and right. We agreed the most aesthetic was the buttress snaking up most directly to the summit. Our route - poorly marked in red - goes up the barely lit central buttress to the summit:

Image

I didn't take v many pics, my camera was thawing out. And sorry ladies, no butt pics of Rolf on lead--he seemed to quickly disappear from view, as befits a rat.

For first lead, I won rock paper scissors, and got probably the best pitch of the route. Up a steep juggy corner (careful hold selection), then a rising, more solid and exposed ramp, that at times gave that familiar feeling of pushing you off toward the void. Some 5.9 on this pitch, an engaging exercise putting together the pieces. Looking down pitch 1.

Image

Rolf's pitch 2 took the chimney/gully, 5.8 or 5.8+?, to a nice belay and decision point: the central buttress, or east buttress of the south face? We stuck with our original plan. For p 3, I hung a left and sent an easy boulder prob to gain the ridge crest and a spate of more sustained climbing before it relented to more wandery rambling. 5.8+ again? I stuck to the ridge crest, but there are certainly variations on this ledgy gneiss.

Looking down p3 from a belay on the crest, just below a prominent tower; you can see the more easterly buttress off on the left.

Image

Rolf's pitch 4 skirted the tower on the left; more moderate climbing, but also greater loose rock management. From his belay, I climbed some steeper rock (nice corners) and then ledge systems, carefully constraining the course of the rope to avoid dislodging some slayers. Super fun pitch, with fine air and views.

Top of p 5; mt despair central background.

Image

For the last pitch, Rolf ran up a steepish blocky and juggy section, which then backed off to the remaining summit scramble. Nice views both ways along the Southern Pickets.
L to R: McMillan spires, Inspiration, Degenhardt Glacier.
Image

We then boogied down the West Ridge route and then the couloir back to our packs. For fun and moderate climbing on mostly good rock, in a remote setting, I recommend this climb.

More pics.

User avatar
skykilo
olikyks
from Santa Fe
Contact:

Re: 13 Jul 2013 - Mt Terror, Central Buttress of South Face

Post by skykilo »

That looks pretty good. Rolf is even smiling!

Ross and I did that hike three times in a few weeks way back when. If I had acquired the taste I'm pretty sure I've had it salvaged by now.



User avatar
huevón
are we there yet?
from el mundo
Contact:

Re: 13 Jul 2013 - Mt Terror, Central Buttress of South Face

Post by huevón »

Ur Gonzo. Did that other ridge thing look fun to climb?
E_$ wrote:Looking down p3 from a belay on the crest, just below a prominent tower; you can see the more easterly buttress off on the left.Image

User avatar
DonJuanPakistan
Trippin' travellin'.
from Seattle, Washington
Contact:

Re: 13 Jul 2013 - Mt Terror, Central Buttress of South Face

Post by DonJuanPakistan »

As shallow into the Pickets as you can get, and still raw as ground beef.
Applause.

E_$
imminent whippage

Re: 13 Jul 2013 - Mt Terror, Central Buttress of South Face

Post by E_$ »

Yeah DJP, like seared sashimi, with the crust being Terror Creek to the Chopping Block; a bight into Crescent Cr Basin, and you're in the raw. Atrocilicious, as Rolf might say.

huevon, i think that ridge would be a lot of fun. It did look a bit more rambly, perhaps a bit more loose--but looks can be deceiving. I believe it would intersect the E ridge route for its last stretch--check out the 1970 Firey route in Beckey.

naomig
naomig

Re: 13 Jul 2013 - Mt Terror, Central Buttress of South Face

Post by naomig »

Awesome $! I got to read this trip report with Sky's commentary - he's sitting next to me. It was entertaining.

E_$
imminent whippage

Re: 13 Jul 2013 - Mt Terror, Central Buttress of South Face

Post by E_$ »

i can only imagine. i look forward to making commentary on Sky's commentary--punk.

teleross
TeleRoss
from on the beach
Contact:

Re: 13 Jul 2013 - Mt Terror, Central Buttress of South Face

Post by teleross »

but...what was this mysto 'big objective'?

User avatar
skykilo
olikyks
from Santa Fe
Contact:

Re: 13 Jul 2013 - Mt Terror, Central Buttress of South Face

Post by skykilo »

Yes, the Big Objective: spill the beans!

Post Reply