13 Jul 2013 - Mt Terror, Central Buttress of South Face

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13 Jul 2013 - Mt Terror, Central Buttress of South Face

Postby E_$ » Wed Jul 17, 2013 3:07 pm

After a hiatus, thoroughly spamming this board. Rolf and I climbed this (likely) new route last weekend, provisional name = Fear and Loathing. Grade III (approx 6 pitches; we did 5 1/2 with a 70m), 5.9 adventure climbing on mostly solid (and well featured) Skagit gneiss. It fit--as an active rest day--into a grander 4-day scheme of approach/active rest/big objective/deproach. The big objective turned us back, but we'll always have Terror. And loathing.

After the most enjoyable and casual 6.5 hour approach (it's an acquired taste) to our camp near the Chopping Block, we could look across lovely Crescent Creek basin at Mt Terror. Hard tellin' not knowin', a route up the face sure looked improbable. We took a casual approach, waiting for the sun to get on the rock (frosty night), and weighed a number of potential routes. The most viable options appeared to be the butresses on the left, center, and right. We agreed the most aesthetic was the buttress snaking up most directly to the summit. Our route - poorly marked in red - goes up the barely lit central buttress to the summit:

Image

I didn't take v many pics, my camera was thawing out. And sorry ladies, no butt pics of Rolf on lead--he seemed to quickly disappear from view, as befits a rat.

For first lead, I won rock paper scissors, and got probably the best pitch of the route. Up a steep juggy corner (careful hold selection), then a rising, more solid and exposed ramp, that at times gave that familiar feeling of pushing you off toward the void. Some 5.9 on this pitch, an engaging exercise putting together the pieces. Looking down pitch 1.

Image

Rolf's pitch 2 took the chimney/gully, 5.8 or 5.8+?, to a nice belay and decision point: the central buttress, or east buttress of the south face? We stuck with our original plan. For p 3, I hung a left and sent an easy boulder prob to gain the ridge crest and a spate of more sustained climbing before it relented to more wandery rambling. 5.8+ again? I stuck to the ridge crest, but there are certainly variations on this ledgy gneiss.

Looking down p3 from a belay on the crest, just below a prominent tower; you can see the more easterly buttress off on the left.

Image

Rolf's pitch 4 skirted the tower on the left; more moderate climbing, but also greater loose rock management. From his belay, I climbed some steeper rock (nice corners) and then ledge systems, carefully constraining the course of the rope to avoid dislodging some slayers. Super fun pitch, with fine air and views.

Top of p 5; mt despair central background.

Image

For the last pitch, Rolf ran up a steepish blocky and juggy section, which then backed off to the remaining summit scramble. Nice views both ways along the Southern Pickets.
L to R: McMillan spires, Inspiration, Degenhardt Glacier.
Image

We then boogied down the West Ridge route and then the couloir back to our packs. For fun and moderate climbing on mostly good rock, in a remote setting, I recommend this climb.

More pics.
E_$
imminent whippage
 

Re: 13 Jul 2013 - Mt Terror, Central Buttress of South Face

Postby skykilo » Wed Jul 17, 2013 4:09 pm

That looks pretty good. Rolf is even smiling!

Ross and I did that hike three times in a few weeks way back when. If I had acquired the taste I'm pretty sure I've had it salvaged by now.
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skykilo
olikyks
 
from Santa Fe

Re: 13 Jul 2013 - Mt Terror, Central Buttress of South Face

Postby ryanl » Thu Jul 18, 2013 8:21 am

You're $, $.
ryanl
 

Re: 13 Jul 2013 - Mt Terror, Central Buttress of South Face

Postby Diamond Dachshund » Thu Jul 18, 2013 10:50 am

$, Power, Respect.
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from The Future

Re: 13 Jul 2013 - Mt Terror, Central Buttress of South Face

Postby huevón » Thu Jul 18, 2013 1:17 pm

Ur Gonzo. Did that other ridge thing look fun to climb?
E_$ wrote:Looking down p3 from a belay on the crest, just below a prominent tower; you can see the more easterly buttress off on the left.Image
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huevón
are we there yet?
 
from el mundo

Re: 13 Jul 2013 - Mt Terror, Central Buttress of South Face

Postby DonJuanPakistan » Thu Jul 18, 2013 1:23 pm

As shallow into the Pickets as you can get, and still raw as ground beef.
Applause.
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DonJuanPakistan
Trippin' travellin'.
 
from Seattle, Washington

Re: 13 Jul 2013 - Mt Terror, Central Buttress of South Face

Postby E_$ » Fri Jul 19, 2013 3:10 pm

Yeah DJP, like seared sashimi, with the crust being Terror Creek to the Chopping Block; a bight into Crescent Cr Basin, and you're in the raw. Atrocilicious, as Rolf might say.

huevon, i think that ridge would be a lot of fun. It did look a bit more rambly, perhaps a bit more loose--but looks can be deceiving. I believe it would intersect the E ridge route for its last stretch--check out the 1970 Firey route in Beckey.
E_$
imminent whippage
 

Re: 13 Jul 2013 - Mt Terror, Central Buttress of South Face

Postby naomig » Sun Jul 21, 2013 7:53 pm

Awesome $! I got to read this trip report with Sky's commentary - he's sitting next to me. It was entertaining.
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Re: 13 Jul 2013 - Mt Terror, Central Buttress of South Face

Postby E_$ » Mon Jul 22, 2013 11:51 am

i can only imagine. i look forward to making commentary on Sky's commentary--punk.
E_$
imminent whippage
 

Re: 13 Jul 2013 - Mt Terror, Central Buttress of South Face

Postby teleross » Tue Jul 23, 2013 10:27 am

but...what was this mysto 'big objective'?
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TeleRoss
 
from on the beach

Re: 13 Jul 2013 - Mt Terror, Central Buttress of South Face

Postby skykilo » Sat Jul 27, 2013 12:56 pm

Yes, the Big Objective: spill the beans!
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from Santa Fe


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