Squamish start of season

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naomig
naomig

Squamish start of season

Post by naomig »

I started climbing in Squamish the day after I got back from a >1 month long visit to see Sky. This season has been an incredible start and I've been so fortunate to meet so many strong climbers. For once I don't think I'll have to go as far as search in the dumpster for climbing partners AND everyone seems game with anything I suggest! The stars are lining up. YEY!

Jorge and Julie text me the moment I landed in Seattle. They were in Squamish for one more day and it was no brainer that I was going to climb with them the next day. I picked to climb Magic Carpet Ride and Hungry Wold - both Squamish classics. Magic Carpet Ride is a 4 pitch 11c slab climb. I took some good wippers on this second pitch it but I persevered.
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Only Julie and Jorge would agree to climb 11c slab. Thanks guys! Jorge is following and Julie waiting her turn.
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Hungry Wolf was a 2 pitch 11b/c crack climb. I got to lead the hard pitch :)
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Then I met a Cuban/Chilean guy called David and a Mexican who we call Chino. David is a good crack climber and Chino is a crazy good sporto man. We went to Nightmare Rock at Murrin the first time and this was the easiest climb by far: Sentry Box Lite 10a. A good warm up or cool down climb. Chino practising his trad skills on this one.
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Get Chino on bolts and nothing seems hard for him, but he got worked on this undercling 11c traverse, Granddady Overhang. I lead it first and left the gear in for him to climb it sport style. This is where the traverse starts.
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Chino on the crux which is technical and super pumpy. I almost got it clean the second time, but I'll have to save it for another day.
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Chino and I went sport climbing another time and since it rained we went to a super overhanging sport wall, The Circus in Chek. I lead an 11c and two 12a's following Chino. His smoothness was deceiving. It was HARD, but with a little more stamina I can get those clean this year. (No pics)

The day after getting annihilated in Chek I wanted to climb the Chief. I was dying to do a long multipitch climb. David was put under my enthusiasm spell and he was down to climbing anything. So for a start of the season warm up we jumped on Borderline and finished off with Angel's Crest.

David leading the 4th pitch. I had dirt on my feet and slipped on the set of steps on the bottom left. Since I didn't bother making David pull up the rope I slid down 3 m hitting my ribs and shins.
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It was painful and got pretty swollen, but nothing was broken. I was embarrassed though and looked at David saying "I promise I'm not a reckless climber or try not to be". I was also not quick to reply "I'm fine" right away since I knew adrenaline was running through me and I had no idea if it would and how much it would hurt later.
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David pulling the first roof.
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David on the 10a/b chimney/offwidth pitch. I still struggle on that one.
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Here is our commentary at the top of Borderline. It cracks me up. We're so goofy.


After a 10 hour epic - I fell, lost another two biners and David got worked - we were ecstatic! David was pretty tired so I lead all the 8 pitches remaining on Angel's Crest. I tried to climb it fast alpine style, but my anchor building was not very efficient.
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I am excited to have Chino and David for solid climbing partners. I met another couple girls, Evelyn and Jo, that climb hard trad and I so want to get together with them too. Julie and Jorge are hopefully moving back to Vancouver/Squamish in Aug. I'm soooooooo excited for this climbing season. I get to rock it hard! F*** yeah!

I'll be updating this album with more climbing pictures as the season goes along:
https://picasaweb.google.com/1166681895 ... Summer2013#

teleross
TeleRoss
from on the beach
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Re: Squamish start of season

Post by teleross »

killin it!
Have you done Freeway?
If not get on it...it's so good!

naomig
naomig

Re: Squamish start of season

Post by naomig »

Thanks Ross. So many of my new climbing partners are psyched to climb Freeway this year! Right now it's closed because of the Peregrin Falcon nesting season. That also suits me good since I'd like to get faster on 11+ trad climbs. That'll make Freeway more enjoyable rather than getting spanked on all 12 pitches.

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skykilo
olikyks
from Santa Fe
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Re: Squamish start of season

Post by skykilo »

Looks like a lot of great climbing. Glad you found some good partners. Especially for those kind of slab climbs!

PeteH

Re: Squamish start of season

Post by PeteH »

You're killin' it Naomi. Nice job.

ryanl

Re: Squamish start of season

Post by ryanl »

your enthusiasm is infectious naomi...

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