We decided to scout an alternate approach and ogled spectacular views of The Needles.
Warlock Needle: the 5.8 traverse/sixth pitch of Romantic Warrior is visible on the left side and it looks a bit like a smiley face.
The road to the campground is in rough shape. One guy flew his airplane from Sonoma County then rented this fly whip in Kernville. They sustained critical damage to part of the exhaust support but managed to drive it onto a big rock in lieu of a jack stand then they used sport tape to fix it. Hopefully it worked?
On our second attempt the approach went smoothly. Here is a view full of anxious excitement. It's easy to identify the Living Corner, the 10d pitch, the first 12a pitch and the 12a traverse.
Ross leads the first pitch. It's a greasy 5.10a with questionable protection at the start. I found it weird enough to consider it a legitimate 5.9+ pitch.
The Living Corner, 60 m of the most amazing 5.7 where you can pick your style: crack, face or corner? It's all good! This photo has been modified to reflect my feelings about the pitch.
Ross leads the first more difficult pitch: strenuous, steep, superb with stances between moves.
I follow.
Ross with some fancy corner moves following the first 12a pitch.
It ends with a freaky mantle. This is the only move I blatantly aided on my leads. Next time I will give it a real heave.
What feet? Ross leads the traverse.
Following the traverse: too much trouble to stop and rack those cams on the harness.
The 5.8 traverse was also interesting.
Ross follows.
Ross leads the singular Book of Deception.
This is probably the most restful stance on the pitch.
The last of the harder pitches packed plenty of punch
Headed for summit number two....
Summit number three: YEAH BOYEE!
I did not know about all that! That's way more brassies and TCUs of the 0-00-000 variety than I've ever placed on a route.
I'm glad we could have another big adventure six(?) years later, Ross. What's next!?