Romantic Warrior, The Needles

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skykilo
Posts: 913
Joined: Thu Feb 18, 2010 9:29 pm
Custom Title: olikyks
Location: Santa Fe

Romantic Warrior, The Needles

Post by skykilo » Tue Sep 18, 2012 9:50 pm

After Atlantis, we were primed for Romantic Warrior. But we botched the approach on our first attempt. The crazy gully between the Witch and the Warlock requires a double rope rappel, which I learned while peeking at the ends of my rope hanging above a ledge.

We decided to scout an alternate approach and ogled spectacular views of The Needles.
It's another exciting picture on Ski Sickness

Warlock Needle: the 5.8 traverse/sixth pitch of Romantic Warrior is visible on the left side and it looks a bit like a smiley face.
It's another exciting picture on Ski Sickness

The road to the campground is in rough shape. One guy flew his airplane from Sonoma County then rented this fly whip in Kernville. They sustained critical damage to part of the exhaust support but managed to drive it onto a big rock in lieu of a jack stand then they used sport tape to fix it. Hopefully it worked?
It's another exciting picture on Ski Sickness

On our second attempt the approach went smoothly. Here is a view full of anxious excitement. It's easy to identify the Living Corner, the 10d pitch, the first 12a pitch and the 12a traverse.
It's another exciting picture on Ski Sickness

Ross leads the first pitch. It's a greasy 5.10a with questionable protection at the start. I found it weird enough to consider it a legitimate 5.9+ pitch.
It's another exciting picture on Ski Sickness

The Living Corner, 60 m of the most amazing 5.7 where you can pick your style: crack, face or corner? It's all good! This photo has been modified to reflect my feelings about the pitch.
It's another exciting picture on Ski Sickness

Ross leads the first more difficult pitch: strenuous, steep, superb with stances between moves.
It's another exciting picture on Ski Sickness

I follow.
It's another exciting picture on Ski Sickness

Ross with some fancy corner moves following the first 12a pitch.
It's another exciting picture on Ski Sickness

It ends with a freaky mantle. This is the only move I blatantly aided on my leads. Next time I will give it a real heave.
It's another exciting picture on Ski Sickness

What feet? Ross leads the traverse.
It's another exciting picture on Ski Sickness

Following the traverse: too much trouble to stop and rack those cams on the harness.
It's another exciting picture on Ski Sickness

The 5.8 traverse was also interesting.
It's another exciting picture on Ski Sickness

Ross follows.
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Ross leads the singular Book of Deception.
It's another exciting picture on Ski Sickness

This is probably the most restful stance on the pitch.
It's another exciting picture on Ski Sickness

The last of the harder pitches packed plenty of punch
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Headed for summit number two....
It's another exciting picture on Ski Sickness

Summit number three: YEAH BOYEE!
It's another exciting picture on Ski Sickness

I did not know about all that! That's way more brassies and TCUs of the 0-00-000 variety than I've ever placed on a route.

I'm glad we could have another big adventure six(?) years later, Ross. What's next!?

ryanl
Posts: 232
Joined: Sat Feb 20, 2010 10:06 pm

Re: Romantic Warrior, The Needles

Post by ryanl » Fri Sep 21, 2012 9:41 am

Amazing climbs you two. You sort of down played it, maybe because Ross gave the details, but the way you guys stuck with it after your botched approach is classic. You guys are my heros.

casruff
Posts: 26
Joined: Wed May 26, 2010 4:56 pm
Custom Title: casruff

Re: Romantic Warrior, The Needles

Post by casruff » Fri Sep 21, 2012 11:49 am

Pretty amazing you guys. What a spectacular looking place. Your pics make it look like you nearly had the whole area to yourselves.

teleross
Posts: 96
Joined: Fri Sep 10, 2010 11:37 am
Custom Title: TeleRoss
Location: on the beach

Re: Romantic Warrior, The Needles

Post by teleross » Fri Sep 21, 2012 2:28 pm

We nearly did. There's hardly anyone ever up there.
The first day there were I think only four other people in the Needles. That seems to be about the max that I've seen climbing there at any one time. The day we did Romantic Warrior, there was only one other party climbing, and they were over on the Sorcerer, which felt like a long, long ways away from where we were.

PeteH
Posts: 93
Joined: Tue Mar 09, 2010 8:59 pm

Re: Romantic Warrior, The Needles

Post by PeteH » Sun Sep 23, 2012 9:03 am

Yos next?

E_$
Posts: 183
Joined: Thu Feb 18, 2010 11:03 pm
Custom Title: imminent whippage

Re: Romantic Warrior, The Needles

Post by E_$ » Mon Sep 24, 2012 3:58 pm

yup it's been said, stellar pics and amazing-looking climbing. has long been high on my list of desinations, gotta make it happen soon before i get old. when are the best months, Ross?

teleross
Posts: 96
Joined: Fri Sep 10, 2010 11:37 am
Custom Title: TeleRoss
Location: on the beach

Re: Romantic Warrior, The Needles

Post by teleross » Mon Sep 24, 2012 8:53 pm

summer is best for the needles. you should definitely check out the climbing there...it's absolutely stunning!

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