Squamish, Tantalus Wall via Milk Run

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skykilo
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Joined: Thu Feb 18, 2010 9:29 pm
Custom Title: olikyks
Location: Santa Fe

Squamish, Tantalus Wall via Milk Run

Post by skykilo » Sun Jul 29, 2012 12:08 pm

After sampling the Calling, I had other suggestions for Eric, but he thought we'd be better served with more mileage on "5.11 terrain," which led to a long anticipated turn on Tantalus Wall. A free climb "courtesy" of Peter Croft and Craig Thomson in 1982, the climbing on the sustained pitches up the headwall generally consists of tweaking your way up incipient cracks from pin scar to pin scar.

This is the traverse pitch on Milk Run; it felt wetter and harder than the first two times I did it.
It's another exciting picture on Ski Sickness

Almost to the magnificent Milk Run dihedral.
It's another exciting picture on Ski Sickness

Eric finds a rest during his on-sight of the first pitch up the dihedral.
It's another exciting picture on Ski Sickness

Eric follows the sustained second pitch of the dihedral.
It's another exciting picture on Ski Sickness

There's some bonus funk near the top.
It's another exciting picture on Ski Sickness

A 5.8 tarzan pitch along Tantalus Ledge leads to the burly off-width start of Tantalus Wall. After the off width, Tantalus Wall reveals its true nature above a funky roof.

Eric prepares for some Dirty D.
It's another exciting picture on Ski Sickness

Eric tweaks his way toward the big cedar tree.
It's another exciting picture on Ski Sickness

The pitch above the cedar tree is wild. An aid traverse on four bolts above the roof leads to a pendulum to get established in ... (wait for it) ... another thin crack.

Making a move up the thin crack after the traverse.
It's another exciting picture on Ski Sickness

Our strategic 1 pm start let us finish in twilight. Eric, psyched: take us home, brother!
It's another exciting picture on Ski Sickness

teleross
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Joined: Fri Sep 10, 2010 11:37 am
Custom Title: TeleRoss
Location: on the beach

Re: Squamish, Tantalus Wall via Milk Run

Post by teleross » Sun Jul 29, 2012 12:21 pm

Yeah dawg! That's a good one huh?

naomig
Posts: 187
Joined: Tue Aug 31, 2010 9:38 pm
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Re: Squamish, Tantalus Wall via Milk Run

Post by naomig » Sun Jul 29, 2012 4:50 pm

Good job getting two awesome climbs this weekend! AND lovely to have you two around at my place!

ryanl
Posts: 232
Joined: Sat Feb 20, 2010 10:06 pm

Re: Squamish, Tantalus Wall via Milk Run

Post by ryanl » Mon Jul 30, 2012 10:09 am

Awesome trips you two. That crack photo from the Calling gives me the willies.

PeteH
Posts: 93
Joined: Tue Mar 09, 2010 8:59 pm

Re: Squamish, Tantalus Wall via Milk Run

Post by PeteH » Mon Jul 30, 2012 1:53 pm

Nice job. I've sure gaped a lot at that Tantalus Wall.

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