Alaska Highway, Squamish

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skykilo
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Alaska Highway, Squamish

Post by skykilo » Sat Jun 16, 2012 3:13 pm

Naomi and I wanted to climb something exciting this week. The weather was mostly unfavorable, but yesterday was good enough. I've been fantasizing for a few years about climbing the Northern Lights. Yesterday we jumped on the first half of it, Alaska Highway.

The first pitch involves some authentic Squamish monkey business.
It's another exciting picture on Ski Sickness

Naomi made a proud on-sight lead of the first pitch, especially considering how wet it was. I blew a foot twice after stepping into some mud but managed to hold a sweet finger lock. I was lucky my finger wasn't bleeding after that.
It's another exciting picture on Ski Sickness

I've led things with harder moves than the second pitch, but as a sustained pitch it might be the hardest thing I've led. Is it a roof? An overhanging groove? A traverse? Who knows, but it's spectacular climbing.
It's another exciting picture on Ski Sickness

Pulling through one bulge after another, it seemed like it would get easier. Eventually in an open book type feature it was only slightly overhanging, but wet.

Naomi near the top of the pitch.
It's another exciting picture on Ski Sickness

The third pitch is pure bliss.
It's another exciting picture on Ski Sickness

Pulling past the chimney.
It's another exciting picture on Ski Sickness

It has good rests.
It's another exciting picture on Ski Sickness

The fourth pitch begins with a lieback.
It's another exciting picture on Ski Sickness

Naomi before the crux hand traverse on the fifth pitch.
It's another exciting picture on Ski Sickness

This climb is stellar! The 5.8 runout face to Astroledge is only runout by Squamish standards. The whole climb, while challenging and sustained, offers great protection.

When it's dry in August and July: Northern Lights, anyone?

naomig
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Re: Alaska Highway, Squamish

Post by naomig » Sat Jun 16, 2012 4:49 pm

What an amazing climb to end my climbing season this year. Thanks for coming and doing something super awesome with me, Sky.

PeteH
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Joined: Tue Mar 09, 2010 8:59 pm

Re: Alaska Highway, Squamish

Post by PeteH » Sat Jun 16, 2012 6:23 pm

You guys are killin it. Nice Send!

BettyBoost
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Re: Alaska Highway, Squamish

Post by BettyBoost » Sat Jun 16, 2012 11:09 pm

Big Betty says you two are the SHIIIIIIIT! Crushing it. Good luck with your surgery Naomi! Heal up quick!

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Diamond Dachshund
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Re: Alaska Highway, Squamish

Post by Diamond Dachshund » Sun Jun 17, 2012 12:58 am

Is that crazy-ass roof the 11c/d crux on the second pitch? WTF. Looks like good enough pro to send with confidence though. Climbin' tuff are we?

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skykilo
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Re: Alaska Highway, Squamish

Post by skykilo » Mon Jun 18, 2012 2:48 pm

That roof is part of the crux pitch, but it's not really a cruxy pitch. It's more like 30 m of fairly sustained beatdown. Hopefully I'll get a chance to climb at Squamish when it's dry somewhere in the July-September range.

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