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Zion, Shune's Buttress

Posted: Mon Mar 26, 2012 9:17 pm
by skykilo
Previous: Zion, Monkeyfinger

After Monkeyfinger, we had our sights set on Shune's Buttress. I was plenty sore and wanted nothing to do with an early start. Plus Shune's Buttress faces directly north so it is not a warm aspect. So we started late again, proclaiming ourselves "team fix-and-fire."

Shune's Butress is a beauty.
It's another exciting picture on Ski Sickness

The first pitch is an 11+ finger crack, predominantly 0.5-0.75", which features some stemming, lots of lieback and a thin crux or two.
It's another exciting picture on Ski Sickness

Lots of people do 160 ft to the top of a tower, but there is an anchor made of two drilled angles with a good stance. I had climbed past another cruxy move before I noticed it, but happily retreated to it when I noticed more steep, thin moves above me. I had already used a lot of the thin gear.

Mike leads to the top of the tower.
It's another exciting picture on Ski Sickness

From the top of the tower, there is a 5.9 corner or a 5.10 splitter crack that climbs a face that features fingers, hand jams plus some fun face moves. I led the splitter and I highly recommend it.

Mike led the next pitch up a burly "5.10" offwidth then through some 5.10 fists. That was as high as our ropes would go so we fixed them and called it a day. We had made quick work of the pitches and in retrospect maybe we should have just sent it.

The next morning (Saturday) two climbers from SLC were atop the tower when we arrived. We waited to jug our second line and let them go ahead. This was a long, cold wait but I would have felt bad to haul past them, make them wait, then possibly be slower. They were understanding about our ropes and I think everybody still had a great day. Thanks for being cool, Andy and Matty.

Matty makes a valiant effort at freeing the offwidth.
It's another exciting picture on Ski Sickness

Finally we were climbing again. This was a classic chimney pitch.
It's another exciting picture on Ski Sickness

Mike leads past a bolt on small but very positive face holds.
It's another exciting picture on Ski Sickness

The position through here is striking.
It's another exciting picture on Ski Sickness

The face pitch is short. The next pitch is one of the most spectacular pitches I've climbed. A few moves down around the corner lead to a thin finger crack with small face features. The thin fingers become sustained 0.5-0.75" fingers through a roof, then sustained 1" thin hands. The whole thing is splitter and the exposure is outlandish, more than 500 ft above the canyon.

Mike follows the splitter through the roof.
It's another exciting picture on Ski Sickness

The last pitch is 160 ft of fun hand jams and face holds.
It's another exciting picture on Ski Sickness

Rappel -- watch those ropes!
It's another exciting picture on Ski Sickness

I am psyched and ready for another week of vacation.
It's another exciting picture on Ski Sickness

The ten-hour drive home was a grind. I noticed my car had a flat tire before heading to work on Monday morning. Glad that did not happen somewhere in the sparse expanses of the Navajo Nation!

Nine days after my previous shower (a new personal record?), there was a transient puddle of red mud by the drain.

Re: Zion, Shune's Buttress

Posted: Tue Mar 27, 2012 8:49 am
by Atraslin
Looks like a fun climb.

Re: Zion, Shune's Buttress

Posted: Tue Mar 27, 2012 10:39 pm
by Alex
skykilo wrote: Mike follows the splitter through the roof.
It's another exciting picture on Ski Sickness
Looks like quite the pitch.

Congrats on setting a new record! I'm glad you enjoyed your holiday. You even had fresh powder.

Re: Zion, Shune's Buttress

Posted: Wed Mar 28, 2012 10:57 am
by ryanl
I'm probably not one to talk, but you should work on your "psyched" pose:

It's another exciting picture on Ski Sickness

This one is way better (courtesy of JH)
DSC_4875.jpg
Can't wait to see you dude....

Re: Zion, Shune's Buttress

Posted: Wed Mar 28, 2012 11:25 am
by skykilo
My days of unadulterated enthusiasm have been lost.

Re: Zion, Shune's Buttress

Posted: Wed Mar 28, 2012 2:33 pm
by ryanl
"My days of unadulterated enthusiasm have been lost"

http://youtu.be/BqnQQIvSo1I

Re: Zion, Shune's Buttress

Posted: Sat Mar 31, 2012 10:44 pm
by huevón
That rocks. I'm jealous. Hot damn you are one sexay beech. That shirt is so awesome. I want this picture to be scratch and sniff. :P

Re: Zion, Shune's Buttress

Posted: Tue Apr 03, 2012 3:49 pm
by PeteH
Nice gents. This one has been on my list for a while. Way to go git it!

Re: Zion, Shune's Buttress

Posted: Tue Apr 03, 2012 11:01 pm
by naomig
Ryan, you're hilarious. Sky, you're killing it! See you soon.