Zion, Monkeyfinger

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skykilo
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Location: Santa Fe

Zion, Monkeyfinger

Post by skykilo » Mon Mar 26, 2012 7:52 pm

Previous: Zion, The Coke Explosion

Monkeyfinger follows the striking line right of center.
It's another exciting picture on Ski Sickness
It has been called "the Astroman of the desert" or something like that, whatever that means.

We had beers at camp after The Coke Explosion, because I wanted it to feel like a real vacation. And it did. Then we returned to the Temple of Siniwava to climb the first few pitches of Monkeyfinger while it was still warm, so we could afford to get a crack-of-noon (or later) start the next day to avoid climbing during the cold morning.

Mike solos toward the start. The first pitch is an unprotected 5.6 slab.
It's another exciting picture on Ski Sickness
The slab and the sun obliterated my beer buzz.

Here I lead past the crux of the first "real pitch."
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Mike follows.
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Mike leads the "11d-12b depending on finger size" portion of the next pitch. I was psyched to be able to make the moves free after a hang while seconding it. Tiny tips for fingers and dime edges for feet -- that varnished rock is so slick.
It's another exciting picture on Ski Sickness

Then we fixed our ropes to do the vacation camping thing. Mike at the top of the first pitch on the descent.
It's another exciting picture on Ski Sickness

Sunset on the Watchman.
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My warmup pitch the next morning: a 0.5" crack through a big roof!
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Mike follows the sustained fingers to the hanging belay from hell.
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Another shot near the top of the pitch.
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Mike leads up the pumpy thin hands pitch that follows.
It's another exciting picture on Ski Sickness

The offwidth was surprisingly easy!
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Mike leads the pumpy thin hands pitch from the Monkey Cave.
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The slab pitch was not so bad. The rock turns to junk but at least the climbing gets easier.
It's another exciting picture on Ski Sickness

Mike heads for the final pitch 5.10 chimney, sandy as can be, "some serious desert hazing."
It's another exciting picture on Ski Sickness

What a route! We celebrated with steaks and fingerpops galore.

Next: Zion, Shune's Buttress

naomig
Posts: 187
Joined: Tue Aug 31, 2010 9:38 pm
Custom Title: naomig

Re: Zion, Monkeyfinger

Post by naomig » Mon Mar 26, 2012 8:15 pm

Amazing! Awesome job for climbing all that.

teleross
Posts: 96
Joined: Fri Sep 10, 2010 11:37 am
Custom Title: TeleRoss
Location: on the beach

Re: Zion, Monkeyfinger

Post by teleross » Mon Mar 26, 2012 8:24 pm

Looks like a stellar route! Definitely gotta get on that one
Between that and Shune's Buttress you guys ticked off a couple of the best free routes in the park....
Silverback looks enticing!

ryanl
Posts: 232
Joined: Sat Feb 20, 2010 10:06 pm

Re: Zion, Monkeyfinger

Post by ryanl » Mon Mar 26, 2012 8:50 pm

-ULAR!

Nice to some posts from you hoss! Looks like you had a well deserved phenomenal vacation.

Pics are are fantastic

danhelmstadter
Posts: 58
Joined: Sun Mar 07, 2010 10:35 pm
Custom Title: voluntary admission

Re: Zion, Monkeyfinger

Post by danhelmstadter » Wed Mar 28, 2012 10:26 pm

STOKE!!!

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DonJuanPakistan
Posts: 266
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Custom Title: Trippin' travellin'.
Location: Seattle, Washington

Re: Zion, Monkeyfinger

Post by DonJuanPakistan » Thu Mar 29, 2012 9:48 am

Sended.

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