Castleton Tower, Kor-Ingalls Route

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skykilo
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Castleton Tower, Kor-Ingalls Route

Post by skykilo » Mon Jan 30, 2012 7:27 pm

Randall Gene Sjue (my dad) came to visit in Los Alamos for the last little bit. Randy and I had a good time relaxing, climbing and skiing while he was here. I also did some work while he perfected his chill during the days. I had a bit of a cold and it seemed like it gave me a stiff back.

On our third climbing session of his visit, I was pulling a roof on the first pitch of the day and one side of my lower back responded with distinctly negative feedback. I persisted, finished the pitch, led another pitch, then toproped Len's Roof to finish the session (stupid). The next day my back was in a bad way. Randy and I drove to Albuquerque to get Naomi at the airport and I could barely get into my car. This would be a theme for the next couple of days.

Despite my crippled status, we drove to Moab on Friday. We used the rare opportunity of a down day in the desert to see Arches National Park.

Now I want to climb the Three Gossips.
It's another exciting picture on Ski Sickness

We made a hike to Delicate Arch.
It's another exciting picture on Ski Sickness

After three hot tub sessions and alternating intensive ibuprofen and beer therapy, I felt a climbing outing was in order yesterday. We got psyched for a route with the hallowed Roper-Steck 50 status, the Kor-Ingalls on Castleton Tower.

Randy and Naomi step to the obelisk.
It's another exciting picture on Ski Sickness

Randy's first comment at the parking spot after finally seeing Castleton Tower: "I thought it would be a nice, easy hike." Ha ha ha.

After an exciting approach through high-angle, hard dirt with ball bearings and snow covering it, Naomi led the first pitch. She found an extracurricular chimney.

I follow.
It's another exciting picture on Ski Sickness

Randy did a great job in his first real desert chimney.
It's another exciting picture on Ski Sickness

Maybe the finish wasn't so pretty.
It's another exciting picture on Ski Sickness

I led the second pitch. All kinds of crack fun.
It's another exciting picture on Ski Sickness

Still smiling after the second pitch!
It's another exciting picture on Ski Sickness

Naomi was kind enough to let me lead the third pitch too.

I'm getting psyched for "the bidness" after clipping the bolt. It goes lieback, stem, offwidth, squeeze chimney from here in a rather committing fashion.
It's another exciting picture on Ski Sickness

Naomi follows it.
It's another exciting picture on Ski Sickness

And here Randy triumphantly makes the face moves to the top!
It's another exciting picture on Ski Sickness

Another sweet summit in the desert.
It's another exciting picture on Ski Sickness

Summit shot. Naomi was cold.
It's another exciting picture on Ski Sickness

It was another dreadful drive home in the dark, but we took a nap in Durango. It was great to see you, dad! Nice work on Castleton. Hope you had a good flight, Naomi!

My back is feeling better and I'll be happy to just work this week and "get some rest."

naomig
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Re: Castleton Tower, Kor-Ingalls Route

Post by naomig » Mon Jan 30, 2012 7:55 pm

skykilo wrote: It's another exciting picture on Ski Sickness
My favourite picture in this series. It was quite tight in there. My excuse for going off route is that I haven't climbed outdoors in a couple months and my perception of a 5.4 chimney got a little skewed - I'm sticking to this excuse.

xoxox

PeteH
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Re: Castleton Tower, Kor-Ingalls Route

Post by PeteH » Mon Jan 30, 2012 10:25 pm

An oldy but a goody.

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Diamond Dachshund
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Re: Castleton Tower, Kor-Ingalls Route

Post by Diamond Dachshund » Tue Jan 31, 2012 12:05 pm

Sick you guys went for it. Wasn't too cold? Bummer I missed you guys this time, we'll make it happen soon.

teleross
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Re: Castleton Tower, Kor-Ingalls Route

Post by teleross » Wed Feb 01, 2012 6:33 pm

Looks like a fun route! Good on your pops for getting out and gettin after it! Rad!

E_$
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Re: Castleton Tower, Kor-Ingalls Route

Post by E_$ » Wed Feb 01, 2012 9:07 pm

yeah beauty of a route and tower--pete and i went up the n side years ago.

impressive hoist up chims w/ a bad back. and nice work by the old man. no props for naomi as she's healthy and strong.

looks like a fun desert winter ripper.

Hannah
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Re: Castleton Tower, Kor-Ingalls Route

Post by Hannah » Wed Feb 01, 2012 10:07 pm

Go Randy! I just love the chimney-finish and summit pictures.

ryanl
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Re: Castleton Tower, Kor-Ingalls Route

Post by ryanl » Thu Feb 02, 2012 10:35 am

Great one Sky and all. Sorry to hear about your back- I hope that's the first and last episode.

And I dig the flop move by your dad. One of my preferred techniques. Goes well with my ledge crawl.

naomig
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Re: Castleton Tower, Kor-Ingalls Route

Post by naomig » Thu Feb 02, 2012 5:19 pm

E_$ wrote:no props for naomi as she's healthy and strong.
Ahem, I need to add some info here. I am trying hard to give a finger a rest which I injured in Aug. It's impossible for me to rest it for more than three weeks since that's about the frequency I see Sky at. Sky lured me into climbing this one by saying "it's easy, it's a 5.9". Wrong! It's a desert 5.9 not a gym 5.9, so my healing process regressed again, even if only slightly. I haven't been cranking any hard climbs in a while now and can't wait till I can start going regularly again.

danhelmstadter
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Re: Castleton Tower, Kor-Ingalls Route

Post by danhelmstadter » Fri Feb 03, 2012 8:42 am

sick, thanks for the stoke.

Alex
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Re: Castleton Tower, Kor-Ingalls Route

Post by Alex » Fri Feb 03, 2012 9:20 am

That's one sweet tower. I need to get me some desert sun.

By my standards, that chimney finish looks graceful.

daveb
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Re: Castleton Tower, Kor-Ingalls Route

Post by daveb » Mon Feb 06, 2012 12:28 pm

Nice, the elder Sjue is also into the radness!

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