Squamish, Right Wing and Liquid Gold

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Squamish, Right Wing and Liquid Gold

Postby skykilo » Tue Sep 13, 2011 9:02 pm

Recently, I had the chance to jump on some under-the-radar Squamish classics. Right Wing defeated me brutally a couple of years ago and I've been wanting to try it again. Both Right Wing and Liquid Gold are very sustained, demanding 5.10s, more so than other multipitch 5.10 Squishy routes I've climbed.

Right Wing starts with a short bit of technical bolted stuff after 70 m of classic 5.8 cruising on Eagle's Nest.
It's another exciting picture on Ski Sickness

After that comes 60 m of nonstop mostly brutish 5.10. Naomi is about where I bailed two years ago in this one.
It's another exciting picture on Ski Sickness

The finish on Right Wing climbs an overhanging wall via a corner and a wild protruding beak of rock (left of center near the top of the photo). This pitch is a wee bit like the Sail Flake but it's better, badder and burlier. Sweet jamming in the corner before the beak, too. Really it's probably nothing like the Sail Flake.
It's another exciting picture on Ski Sickness

I chose Right Wing so it was Naomi's turn and she chose Liquid Gold. It starts with some tricky technical stuff and a hard slab move, then the next pitch is a thuggish corner. The slab move pwned me while seconding so I felt a little better after on-sighting the thuggery but it was funky and the overall vibe for me was still WTF!?

Then Naomi became overwhelmingly stoked when her chance arrived to lead *a real chimney*.
It's another exciting picture on Ski Sickness

The climb ends with a serious money pitch. 60 m of hands, fingers, laybacks, stems and bulges. I was concerned about not having any gear left and I felt like I was melting in the hot sun, but this pitch left me STOKED.
It's another exciting picture on Ski Sickness

//END ESPIONAGE EPISODE
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skykilo
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from Santa Fe

Re: Squamish, Right Wing and Liquid Gold

Postby ryanl » Tue Sep 13, 2011 9:13 pm

Right on! Glad you finally got that....
ryanl
 

Re: Squamish, Right Wing and Liquid Gold

Postby naomig » Tue Sep 13, 2011 10:26 pm

Those were two really good climbs and yes, I was super dooper excited to lead a chimney. I liked both the pitches I lead on Liquid Gold. Sky was el hombre on Right Wing.
naomig
naomig
 

Re: Squamish, Right Wing and Liquid Gold

Postby naomig » Wed Sep 14, 2011 4:14 pm

Here are some pics of Sky:

The strenuous laybacking on Right Wing.
Image

Sky just before the beak. The wall is already quite overhanging. Note: Sky's long legs + flexibility = advantage here.
Image

Undercling time.
Image

P3 on Liquid Gold. Sky goes around a pumpy bulge.
Image

Here you go up the many overlapping bulges.
Image

More pics here:
https://picasaweb.google.com/1166681895 ... ish890911#
naomig
naomig
 


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