Zion, Tricks of the Trade

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Zion, Tricks of the Trade

Postby skykilo » Sun Oct 31, 2010 3:45 pm

If you've never seen it, take a look at this climb in the Fifty Favorite Climbs book by Mark Kroese. Schwing!

Pete and I take a rest day to drive to Zion, get our permit, sort our big-wall rack and scope the route.

Court of the Patriarchs: Abraham and Isaac
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And a closer look at Isaac and Tricks of the Trade
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The route goes full tilt right off the deck: splitter fingers to hands to a long battle to the finish with 4-5" offwidth.
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Then a squeeze chimney to draw you into the depths.
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Straight sandstone spelunking starts somewhere on the third pitch.
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Pete in the Mines of Moriah.
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Better not eat too much milk and cookies before the Santa Claus Chimney.
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Pete through the roof like old St Nick.
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Then comes the CALVINATOR: an overhanging chimney with cracks on either side and lots of loose rock to keep it interesting.
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We were hauling a pack full of overnight gear on a tag line up all that. But our accommodations for the night sure did come with a view!
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Pete remotivated to lead a splitter fingers-to-hands crack to finish the day.
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I had dreams about drinking water and pissing oceans that night. But no such luck. We hadn't brought enough water in the first place and the stupid Camelback nipple came off the hose and wasted some of our precious reserve!

Dehydration couldn't have helped my tight muscles, but nevertheless the next morning I had the pleasure to start another day on another stiff crack.
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No need for a sling; this thing will get back-cleaned; we did not bring a mess of #1s.

Holy hand-jam pump, batman! That was a stellar crack!
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Pete cruises up the C2 pitch with offsets and ball nuts and other tricks.
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The headwall crack is all that. Here I'm pulling through a big roof at the top of a chimney on splitter thin hands. Oh my!
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Pete got the perfect splitter hands pitch.
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Beware the 5.9 A0!
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Do you like it wide, big man?
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Pete picks the cherry on top: a killer fist crack!
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I was proud to send it on top rope. I got up in there on bomber stacked hands. Then a few moves on desperate cupped hands. Then a fisting like I've never had!

WOW WHAT A ROUTE! THANKS JOHN MIDDENDORF AND COMPANY! I WANT TO CLIMB AT ZION AGAIN RIGHT NOW! I'M SO SANDSTONED I CAN'T THINK STRAIGHT!
User avatar
skykilo
olikyks
 
from Santa Fe

Re: Zion, Tricks of the Trade

Postby danhelmstadter » Sun Oct 31, 2010 6:09 pm

fkna fellas! thats some wicked stoke!
danhelmstadter
voluntary admission
 

Re: Zion, Tricks of the Trade

Postby PeteH » Sun Oct 31, 2010 6:25 pm

Thanks again Sky, that was killer!
PeteH
 

Re: Zion, Tricks of the Trade

Postby ryanl » Sun Oct 31, 2010 10:23 pm

looks like you got some good use out of those carhartt's! Way to go you two.
ryanl
 

Re: Zion, Tricks of the Trade

Postby skykilo » Mon Nov 01, 2010 7:37 am

That route actually put a hole in the extra layer on one knee!
User avatar
skykilo
olikyks
 
from Santa Fe

Re: Zion, Tricks of the Trade

Postby ziff » Mon Nov 01, 2010 8:48 am

awesome!!!!!

man, I do miss sandstone chimneys.
ziff
 


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