Squamish, Horrors of Ivan and Rutabaga

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Squamish, Horrors of Ivan and Rutabaga

Postby skykilo » Mon Oct 11, 2010 9:25 pm

It was Naomi's birthday and she wanted a spanking. Go shorty, it's your birthday.

I convinced her a warmup lap on World's Toughest Milkman would be worthwhile, so we both led that to start.

"Fine, but I'm not placing any gear."
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Next on tap was The Horrors of Ivan. I was going to lead it first, but she wanted to jump on it and it was her birthday. Her "I'm not placing any gear" strategy came to a spectacular end on this one.

Moments before a beautiful pendulum fall that yanked me off the rock and had me dangling in the air.
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Naomi got her spanking, but by the time she was done with Horrors of Ivan the sun was long gone and my fingers were numb. After calling me a wimp (or was it something more explicit?) for not wanting to stay in the shade to do Horrors of Ivan, she was happy to let me lead whatever to finish the day, so we headed for the soon-to-be-sunny base of the Grand Wall to try Rutabaga.

Pitch one of Rutabaga
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The first pitch has some sweet hand jams.

Pitch two gets more technical
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The finish is tricky. And it was a bit moist up there. I blew a foot and took a nice fall trying to pull through the top of the corner. This photo can't be more than a few seconds before my onsight attempt came to an end.
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What a beautiful afternoon!
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Yesterday was another beautiful afternoon, but a bit of a surprise. Too bad they didn't forecast that until it happened.
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The rope came taut against my ribs on that fall. Several days later, have a look at my ripped abs ropeburn
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skykilo
olikyks
 
from Santa Fe

Re: Squamish, Horrors of Ivan and Rutabaga

Postby DonJuanPakistan » Tue Oct 12, 2010 8:20 am

Its pretty dope how often you've climbed at Squamish this season. Can you link me to some beta re: climbing around Area 51 Los Alamos?
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DonJuanPakistan
Trippin' travellin'.
 
from Seattle, Washington

Re: Squamish, Horrors of Ivan and Rutabaga

Postby skykilo » Tue Oct 12, 2010 8:57 am

The Overlook is about ten minutes from the lab; this link has lots of other nearby stuff too.
http://lamountaineers.org/zLOCATE.html#The%20Overlook

It's about 90 minutes to drive to the top of Sandia Peak. Plenty of entertainment there.
http://www.suntoucher.com/climbs/climbs.aspx

Then the 4-hr range takes you to places like Indian Creek and Zion.

Now for skiing, Pajarito is ten minutes from the lab in the other direction.
http://www.skipajarito.com/
Closed on weekdays so you can schralp the pow before or after work when the lifts aren't running.

Taos Ski Valley is less than two hours and when it snows that place is quite nice.
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skykilo
olikyks
 
from Santa Fe

Re: Squamish, Horrors of Ivan and Rutabaga

Postby ziff » Tue Oct 12, 2010 9:52 pm

looks like you have done your research. :D

if you get the bug to go do some canyoneering, let me know. chills and thrills.
ziff
 

Re: Squamish, Horrors of Ivan and Rutabaga

Postby E_$ » Fri Oct 15, 2010 3:43 pm

nice report, sir flex-a-lot.
i've heard of big whippers on rutabaga. spicy when wet.
E_$
imminent whippage
 

Re: Squamish, Horrors of Ivan and Rutabaga

Postby skykilo » Wed Oct 20, 2010 12:45 am

For E_$, 'cuz I know you like this.
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Lisa flips the rope.
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I LIKE SUNSHINE.
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skykilo
olikyks
 
from Santa Fe

Re: Squamish, Horrors of Ivan and Rutabaga

Postby skykilo » Sat Oct 23, 2010 6:03 pm

There have been a few more days of fall harvest leftovers at Squish. It sure has been good while it lasted.

There was a beautiful day at the Smoke Bluffs. Naomi on Penny Lane.
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Climb and Punishment: I was doing it wrong. Falling in one, two.... I eventually got it dialed, though.
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The other afternoon we nearly had the base of the Grand Wall all to ourselves. Naomi had been talking about EXACERBATOR for a minute. She had tons of fun on the second pitch.
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I had a blast doing an Elvis impersonation through the overlap on Arrowroot.
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Now the outlook is bleak.
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Seems like it would be a good time for a trip to the desert? I better consult with my lawyer.
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skykilo
olikyks
 
from Santa Fe


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