Squamish, Cruel Shoes plus Split Pillar

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Squamish, Cruel Shoes plus Split Pillar

Postby skykilo » Sun Sep 05, 2010 11:14 pm

Naomi and I managed to scrape our way up Cruel Shoes yesterday. We had Grander designs, but they will have to wait for next time.

Since I led Apron Strings when Ryan and I did the Grand Wall Lite and The Flake seemed ever-so-slightly more direct for Cruel Shoes, I wanted to try it. So we began with The Flake.
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Fun first pitch
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Just below the belay
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Naomi was our designated face-climbing specialist, ready and willing to dispatch the second pitch. I noticed a bolt up there somewhere and she went for it. Then there were some rap anchors just up and right - not Cruel Shoes - and she made some valiant attempts. Colin complimented her on an impressive fall during a short conversation as he finished the first pitch of Apron Strings. Nice to see you, dude.

But anyway, eventually Naomi got on the face moves of the first pitch of Cruel Shoes and she sent 'em like it weren't no thang.
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The deceptively difficult traverse pitch after that was deceptively difficult. There was a siren bolt: I fell trying to get to it and later decided it was to protect the second, after finishing the pitch by climbing a totally different way. (From the anchor, I was able to clip that bolt to make Naomi's pendulum potential significantly smaller.)
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Naomi follows the traverse.
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Naomi led the corner, which was a very fun mixture of crack and face moves.
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I like to keep my forces normal.
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Uh oh, stoke!
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It's just an all-around-awesome climb.
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Naomi follows the easy pitch. And it is easy, but if you blow it at the beginning you will go splat.
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Fun slab move above little cars and salty water.
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Last pitch of Cruel Shoes, she's having too much fun.
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Sweet pitch
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And it really does seem like a much more aesthetic way to approach The Grand.
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I walk the little ledge to the bottom of the Split Pillar.
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Cruel Shoes is similar in length to Davis-Holland-Loving Arms, but more face-oriented and slightly more technical. But it puts you at the bottom of the Split Pillar!

And now I get to climb the Split Pillar again!?
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We decided we were too late for the full Grand, plus I had to be back in town for responsibilities, so we ditched our extra stuff on the tree and enjoyed the splitter.

Yes, my toenails are still fabulous.
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Naomi says, "No more jams!"
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But she still gives it a big thumbs up.
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My damn rope got stuck behind the Split Pillar after the rappel, so I had to pull some shenanigans to retrieve it.

Thanks for another awesome climb, Naomi! Let's go finish it!!!

Also, thank you very much for covering the afternoon LN2 fill for me, Eric. You helped make a fun day possible for me.
User avatar
skykilo
olikyks
 
from Santa Fe

Re: Squamish, Cruel Shoes plus Split Pillar

Postby naomig » Mon Sep 06, 2010 1:40 am

I loved loved loved the second 10d pitch.
naomig
naomig
 

Re: Squamish, Cruel Shoes plus Split Pillar

Postby ryanl » Tue Sep 07, 2010 9:50 pm

glad the weekend worked out for you Sky.
ryanl
 


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