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Squamish, Pipeline
Posted: Mon Aug 09, 2010 6:35 am
by skykilo
It's just one heckuva line: the overhanging offwidth just right of center in the bright upper headwall.
Ryan leads the first pitch up the Eagle's Domain.
Ryan follows the second pitch of the Eagle's Domain.
Johnny does the Eagle's Domain thing.
Ryan finishes the fun steep crack that's shared with Birds of Prey.
Then came the moment of truth. The game changer. My most epic struggle on lead in quite some time. Let's just say that I blew my onsight, but I made it up that bad boy in one piece.
The team celebrates at the belay, perhaps a bit early.
Ryan nears the end of difficulties.
Another beautiful day climbing and one of the many faces of the Chief.
Ryan shoots Johnny.
A remarkably good day in Squamish. Thanks to Jim, Ryan, Johnny, Glenn and friend and all the other friendly faces out there.
Re: Squamish, Pipeline
Posted: Mon Aug 09, 2010 7:02 am
by E_$
that is a fantastic line. nice shots. hope I can be there for the next go-round.
Re: Squamish, Pipeline
Posted: Tue Aug 10, 2010 6:50 am
by ryanl
Re: Squamish, Pipeline
Posted: Tue Aug 10, 2010 7:50 am
by skykilo
That's pretty funny. I could have sworn I spent some time inside that crack! I have a scab above my elbow to prove it.
Re: Squamish, Pipeline
Posted: Tue Aug 10, 2010 9:10 pm
by ziff
nuiiice!
cotton, dude, cotton. the friction in an offwidth can almost be called cheating
Re: Squamish, Pipeline
Posted: Tue Aug 10, 2010 9:12 pm
by skykilo
I wore the Dickies, which was smart. I thought about a long-sleeved denim shirt, but failed to wear it. But now I have this rad flesh wound on the back of my arm above my elbow, which is pretty cool.
Re: Squamish, Pipeline
Posted: Tue Aug 10, 2010 9:37 pm
by Alex
Sick. I worry about my ability to flail up that in one piece, but I think it has to go on a to do list anyways.
Re: Squamish, Pipeline
Posted: Tue Aug 10, 2010 10:02 pm
by skykilo
We'll rig you some prusiks before departure as a backup. I definitely need to get all up in there again one of these days.
Re: Squamish, Pipeline
Posted: Wed Aug 11, 2010 3:24 am
by Alex
I'm so down. I'll bring a headlamp this time.
Re: Squamish, Pipeline
Posted: Wed Aug 11, 2010 3:16 pm
by Diamond Dachshund
That off-width looks mega-hateful. Do not want.
Did you walk that #6 up like 50 feet? Good work, damn.
Re: Squamish, Pipeline
Posted: Wed Aug 11, 2010 6:44 pm
by skykilo
That crack is too big for a 6 once you get about 10-20 feet above the bolt; that's a number 9 I walked about 50 feet. Then the crack stays wide through the rest of the 50 m pitch but gets easier but you just gotta giv'er.
It is so splendidly hateful. I want another go at it. Gotta get my "red point," which is guaranteed to also include more red drops.
Re: Squamish, Pipeline
Posted: Wed Aug 11, 2010 7:03 pm
by danhelmstadter
sweet!
Re: Squamish, Pipeline
Posted: Wed Aug 11, 2010 7:04 pm
by ryanl
Diamond Dachshund wrote:That off-width looks mega-hateful. Do not want.
Did you walk that #6 up like 50 feet? Good work, damn.
when I got to the bolt I found a #5, a #6, and a #9 all hanging on the up rope side, with about 20 m to the next pro. Big boys like to walk.
Re: Squamish, Pipeline
Posted: Wed Aug 11, 2010 8:19 pm
by skykilo
to be fair, that was operator error; the lesson is to always leave a long sling on a big cam. and the last one didn't walk until i was pulling the rope from the belay with the rope dragging right over it. also, it's more than 25 m from the bolt to the end of the pitch.