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Squamish, Pipeline

PostPosted: Sun Aug 08, 2010 11:35 pm
by skykilo
It's just one heckuva line: the overhanging offwidth just right of center in the bright upper headwall.
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Ryan leads the first pitch up the Eagle's Domain.
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Ryan follows the second pitch of the Eagle's Domain.
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Johnny does the Eagle's Domain thing.
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Ryan finishes the fun steep crack that's shared with Birds of Prey.
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Then came the moment of truth. The game changer. My most epic struggle on lead in quite some time. Let's just say that I blew my onsight, but I made it up that bad boy in one piece.

The team celebrates at the belay, perhaps a bit early.
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Ryan nears the end of difficulties.
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Another beautiful day climbing and one of the many faces of the Chief.
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Ryan shoots Johnny.
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A remarkably good day in Squamish. Thanks to Jim, Ryan, Johnny, Glenn and friend and all the other friendly faces out there.

Re: Squamish, Pipeline

PostPosted: Mon Aug 09, 2010 12:02 am
by E_$
that is a fantastic line. nice shots. hope I can be there for the next go-round.

Re: Squamish, Pipeline

PostPosted: Mon Aug 09, 2010 11:50 pm
by ryanl
Great day Sky and Jonny- looking forward to more.....

Start of the second pitch:

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Looking down from the belay at the base of the badboy:

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Starting out dirty

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then finding the clean groove

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then getting dirty again.

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Re: Squamish, Pipeline

PostPosted: Tue Aug 10, 2010 12:50 am
by skykilo
That's pretty funny. I could have sworn I spent some time inside that crack! I have a scab above my elbow to prove it.

Re: Squamish, Pipeline

PostPosted: Tue Aug 10, 2010 2:10 pm
by ziff
nuiiice!

cotton, dude, cotton. the friction in an offwidth can almost be called cheating :P

Re: Squamish, Pipeline

PostPosted: Tue Aug 10, 2010 2:12 pm
by skykilo
I wore the Dickies, which was smart. I thought about a long-sleeved denim shirt, but failed to wear it. But now I have this rad flesh wound on the back of my arm above my elbow, which is pretty cool.

Re: Squamish, Pipeline

PostPosted: Tue Aug 10, 2010 2:37 pm
by Alex
Sick. I worry about my ability to flail up that in one piece, but I think it has to go on a to do list anyways.

Re: Squamish, Pipeline

PostPosted: Tue Aug 10, 2010 3:02 pm
by skykilo
We'll rig you some prusiks before departure as a backup. I definitely need to get all up in there again one of these days.

Re: Squamish, Pipeline

PostPosted: Tue Aug 10, 2010 8:24 pm
by Alex
I'm so down. I'll bring a headlamp this time.

Re: Squamish, Pipeline

PostPosted: Wed Aug 11, 2010 8:16 am
by Diamond Dachshund
That off-width looks mega-hateful. Do not want.

Did you walk that #6 up like 50 feet? Good work, damn.

Re: Squamish, Pipeline

PostPosted: Wed Aug 11, 2010 11:44 am
by skykilo
That crack is too big for a 6 once you get about 10-20 feet above the bolt; that's a number 9 I walked about 50 feet. Then the crack stays wide through the rest of the 50 m pitch but gets easier but you just gotta giv'er.

It is so splendidly hateful. I want another go at it. Gotta get my "red point," which is guaranteed to also include more red drops.

Re: Squamish, Pipeline

PostPosted: Wed Aug 11, 2010 12:03 pm
by danhelmstadter
sweet!

Re: Squamish, Pipeline

PostPosted: Wed Aug 11, 2010 12:04 pm
by ryanl
Diamond Dachshund wrote:That off-width looks mega-hateful. Do not want.

Did you walk that #6 up like 50 feet? Good work, damn.



when I got to the bolt I found a #5, a #6, and a #9 all hanging on the up rope side, with about 20 m to the next pro. Big boys like to walk.

Re: Squamish, Pipeline

PostPosted: Wed Aug 11, 2010 1:19 pm
by skykilo
to be fair, that was operator error; the lesson is to always leave a long sling on a big cam. and the last one didn't walk until i was pulling the rope from the belay with the rope dragging right over it. also, it's more than 25 m from the bolt to the end of the pitch.