Squamish, Pipeline

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Squamish, Pipeline

Postby skykilo » Sun Aug 08, 2010 11:35 pm

It's just one heckuva line: the overhanging offwidth just right of center in the bright upper headwall.
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Ryan leads the first pitch up the Eagle's Domain.
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Ryan follows the second pitch of the Eagle's Domain.
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Johnny does the Eagle's Domain thing.
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Ryan finishes the fun steep crack that's shared with Birds of Prey.
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Then came the moment of truth. The game changer. My most epic struggle on lead in quite some time. Let's just say that I blew my onsight, but I made it up that bad boy in one piece.

The team celebrates at the belay, perhaps a bit early.
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Ryan nears the end of difficulties.
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Another beautiful day climbing and one of the many faces of the Chief.
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Ryan shoots Johnny.
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A remarkably good day in Squamish. Thanks to Jim, Ryan, Johnny, Glenn and friend and all the other friendly faces out there.
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skykilo
olikyks
 
from Santa Fe

Re: Squamish, Pipeline

Postby E_$ » Mon Aug 09, 2010 12:02 am

that is a fantastic line. nice shots. hope I can be there for the next go-round.
E_$
imminent whippage
 

Re: Squamish, Pipeline

Postby ryanl » Mon Aug 09, 2010 11:50 pm

Great day Sky and Jonny- looking forward to more.....

Start of the second pitch:

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Looking down from the belay at the base of the badboy:

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Starting out dirty

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then finding the clean groove

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then getting dirty again.

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ryanl
 

Re: Squamish, Pipeline

Postby skykilo » Tue Aug 10, 2010 12:50 am

That's pretty funny. I could have sworn I spent some time inside that crack! I have a scab above my elbow to prove it.
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skykilo
olikyks
 
from Santa Fe

Re: Squamish, Pipeline

Postby ziff » Tue Aug 10, 2010 2:10 pm

nuiiice!

cotton, dude, cotton. the friction in an offwidth can almost be called cheating :P
ziff
 

Re: Squamish, Pipeline

Postby skykilo » Tue Aug 10, 2010 2:12 pm

I wore the Dickies, which was smart. I thought about a long-sleeved denim shirt, but failed to wear it. But now I have this rad flesh wound on the back of my arm above my elbow, which is pretty cool.
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skykilo
olikyks
 
from Santa Fe

Re: Squamish, Pipeline

Postby Alex » Tue Aug 10, 2010 2:37 pm

Sick. I worry about my ability to flail up that in one piece, but I think it has to go on a to do list anyways.
Alex
 

Re: Squamish, Pipeline

Postby skykilo » Tue Aug 10, 2010 3:02 pm

We'll rig you some prusiks before departure as a backup. I definitely need to get all up in there again one of these days.
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skykilo
olikyks
 
from Santa Fe

Re: Squamish, Pipeline

Postby Alex » Tue Aug 10, 2010 8:24 pm

I'm so down. I'll bring a headlamp this time.
Alex
 

Re: Squamish, Pipeline

Postby Diamond Dachshund » Wed Aug 11, 2010 8:16 am

That off-width looks mega-hateful. Do not want.

Did you walk that #6 up like 50 feet? Good work, damn.
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Diamond Dachshund
 
from The Future

Re: Squamish, Pipeline

Postby skykilo » Wed Aug 11, 2010 11:44 am

That crack is too big for a 6 once you get about 10-20 feet above the bolt; that's a number 9 I walked about 50 feet. Then the crack stays wide through the rest of the 50 m pitch but gets easier but you just gotta giv'er.

It is so splendidly hateful. I want another go at it. Gotta get my "red point," which is guaranteed to also include more red drops.
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skykilo
olikyks
 
from Santa Fe

Re: Squamish, Pipeline

Postby danhelmstadter » Wed Aug 11, 2010 12:03 pm

sweet!
danhelmstadter
voluntary admission
 

Re: Squamish, Pipeline

Postby ryanl » Wed Aug 11, 2010 12:04 pm

Diamond Dachshund wrote:That off-width looks mega-hateful. Do not want.

Did you walk that #6 up like 50 feet? Good work, damn.



when I got to the bolt I found a #5, a #6, and a #9 all hanging on the up rope side, with about 20 m to the next pro. Big boys like to walk.
ryanl
 

Re: Squamish, Pipeline

Postby skykilo » Wed Aug 11, 2010 1:19 pm

to be fair, that was operator error; the lesson is to always leave a long sling on a big cam. and the last one didn't walk until i was pulling the rope from the belay with the rope dragging right over it. also, it's more than 25 m from the bolt to the end of the pitch.
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skykilo
olikyks
 
from Santa Fe


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