SkiSickness

Liberty Ridge 2010

On July 7th Eric, Dan, Antonio and I climbed and skied the Liberty Ridge on Mount Rainier. We found amazing steep corn conditions from the bergschrund around 13K all the way to the base of the ridge.

Before I get into the details, I need to express my sincere man-love for the kind Dr. Sjue. I apologize in advance for the lengthy mushy prose. Eric and I were just talking about how Sky has been getting progressively gentler and mellower in his mood (not alpine ambition) over the years since we both became acquainted with him. Nonetheless, Sky, the Hummel brothers, and Ben Manfredi were a major inspiration for trying to get out in the mountains when I was in college, and I was lucky to meet Sky when he was my TA in my undergraduate physics course. Since then, we have been on some memorable trips together. Through it all, I have learned an incredible amount of invaluable skills and knowledge from Sky through these experiences. Additionally, I’d like to point out that I have been introduced to a whole host of wonderful people in the local alpine community during my time spent trying to get up high. I just wanted to say thank you to Sky for all of the memorable experiences. And thank you for this kick ass website and for Jason Hummel’s website. The story writing and pictures have gotten me through many days when research just wasn’t clicking and I needed an outlet to let my imagination run wild.

Back in April 2006, Sky and I made two attempts on Liberty Ridge. On the first go, we made it to thumb rock and turned around due to deep snow and warming temperatures. Cards fell into place for another attempt a few weeks later (http://skisickness.com/Rainier/Liberty/) and we found significantly better conditions on this attempt. Sky topped out on Liberty Cap whereas I bonked just below the bergschrund and needed to rest so as to conserve energy for the decent. Nonetheless, with the exception of having to downclimb a 500 ft section of stubborn ice above the black pyramid, we were able to ski nearly perfect conditions all the way down to the tongue of the Carbon glacier. Since this trip, I had always thought that if the right conditions presented themselves, I would plan on a return visit to see if I could complete the climb and ski this amazing line again.

Fast forward a few years to the present. Eric Wehrly and I hatched a plan a few months ago for a return trip to the north side of Ranier with or good friend Sky after we finished school. However, this spring/early summer has been tortuous with all of the good snow up high but no weather window to speak of. Plans were nearly abandoned in my mind for our trip. We then got the forecast of high pressure and high freezing levels the week following July four. A plan was hatched prior to last weekend for a tentative departure. Unfortunately, the good Dr. Sjue had academic obligations that he couldn’t get away from but he wished us well.
We arrived at the ranger station at the White River entrance at 7:45 Tuesday morning and registered and purchased permits from a nice ranger named Jenny. I think she really liked ‘Ladies Man’ Dan because she was so preoccupied with him that she failed to notice that she did not run Eric’s credit card and hence let him go for free. Eric eventually came clean with this after the trip because of the good-natured fellow that he is.

We were on our way up the trail shortly after 8:30 and made good time up to the snow in glacier basin. We drank some water from the glacial stream and Tony tried to kill me with a boulder. We booted up to St. Elmos pass and had an uneventful crossing of the Winthrop and Russell glaciers. We arrived at the 7200’ access ramp from the Curtis ridge to the Carbon glacier around 15:00 where we found a perfect, flat, and snow-free campsite at around 7200’ with access onto the Carbon glacier with delectable views of Rainier’s north side, the Olympics, and the North Cascades. We were elated with our position and with the apparent condition of the route. We brewed up, ate well, and hunkered down into our sleeping bags for a short fitful night’s sleep. While we were sleeping we were visited by Hannah and Aton who were going to climb Liberty Ridge and ski the Emmons in a single push. I don’t think either of us slept that much with all of the nervousness and anticipation of the upcoming adventure.
Five hours later we were up at 1:00 and hastily brewing coffee, eating breakfast, and packing gear. 2:30 found us roped up and cramponing up the carbon glacier corridor to the base of the base Liberty ridge on the western flank. The approach up the glacier was easy aside from a slightly uncomfortable detour well right towards the Ptarmigan ridge underneath the menacing ice cliff of the Liberty Cap glacier so as to pass the gaping crack separating us from accessing the ridge. We were all well aware that we were going to have to reverse this in the afternoon and we each silently internalized our concern as we had to focus on getting onto the ridge out of the line of fire. The traverse back to the single bridge crossing consisted of several hundred feet of rising traverse back underneath the ice cliff.
Once on the pitch below thumb rock, we were greeted by a beautiful sunrise and an easy warm up climb to thumb rock where we were ran into Hannah and Aton. It was great to chat with them before that headed off again. We had a nice leisurely break dropping some weight, melting water and feeding ourselves to get replenished for the climb ahead.

We were off just after 7:00 and continued up and left of thumb rock. The exposure was mind blowing as we moved higher. I kept on experiencing déjà vu from my previous experiences on this route and had to pinch myself over my excitement of the fact that I was on this route again in perfect conditions. Below the black pyramid we found some fun climbing on solid ice which made us worried about descending this way. We decided to split up briefly where Dan went right and climbed the gully on the western flank of the ridge directly below the black pyramid and Eric, Tony, and I continued straight upwards so that we could assess the eastern aspects lower on the ridge once we hit the ridge crest. Here we encountered more fun climbing on firm conditions and a small but passable rock step. We regrouped with Dan at the top of the black pyramid and continued upwards. Once we were on the shield at the top we encountered softening conditions. I was so excited that we were going to be able to ski what Sky and I had to downclimb on our previous trip. However, even though I was well hydrated and well fed, I began to feel the effects of the altitude and the length of this pitch to where the ridge intersects with the liberty cap glacier really took its toll on me. By the time we reached the bergschrund at the base of the steep pitch that encompassed the last 900 ft or so of climbing, I had made the decision to not continue onto the summit as again I felt I needed to conserve energy for the decent especially if there was to be any downclimbing or technical sidestepping. Eric and Tony felt similar to me and hence decided to wait with me at the schrund. Dan had some gas left and really wanted the summit so he climbed the moderate ice and snow pitch to the crest and continued the short slog to liberty cap. I was initially disappointed with myself for letting altitude get the better of me, but I was happy with my decision and realized that despite my condition, I still felt stronger and much more aware than my previous experience on this route.
We napped in the sun for about an hour or so while we waited for Dan. Dan had expressed his want for us to make the call to descend when we felt we were ready regardless if he was with us or not. We finally decided to gear up and get ready to ski hoping that Dan would return during this time. We skied to the edge of the liberty cap glacier on packed powder just before it jogs right and intersects with the steep shield-like face above the black pyramid. Tony went first gingerly sidestepping a little bit of ice and a small amount of wind affected snow. Below that we watched him link beautiful steep turns with incredible exposure. Tony skied right to the perch above the black pyramid where Sky and I downclimbed to last time. Eric went second and I began my descent after he was safe on the perch. Just before I began to glide over the edge where it began to steepen I looked up and saw Dan safely downclimbing the small ice pitch to the schrund and felt happy to see him. As I began the initial part of the decent I felt weightless with each turn. After each turn I would pause and take stock of my surroundings to make sure I was in good, skiable terrain. The conditions were nearly perfect for steep skiing with firm edgeable windboard. Despite the fact that we were all very tense given our position, we were excited with the conditions.
Once at the perch we made the decision to descend the Eastern flank of the ridge as it appeared to be sun-ripened, soft corn snow. I snapped pictures of Eric and Tony skiing steeps with the Willis Wall as the backdrop. I kept thinking of my position perched here 4 years ago when I shot nearly identical images of Sky shredding this exact pitch.
We ended up skiing a little lower on the eastern aspect of the ridge than Sky and I had and as a result had to do a spicy but very doable traverse back west towards the steep pitch leading to thumb rock. In the process of crossing over the second to last rib, we got to witness a very large avalanche from the ice cliff above the Willis Wall down Thermogenesis. Although we were well out of harms way given our position, we were close enough to feel the power of the avalanche and were even partially dusted with the cloud. To say the least, it was a very humbling experience. We were so awestruck that none of us even thought to take out a camera.


Once across the rib and onto the steep and sun-softened face above thumb rock, it was incredible steep skiing down to thumb rock. We were joined by an elated Helmstadter just below thumb rock. Here we made the call with the help of Eric’s argumentative skills that we should descend immediately rather than wait several hours. Thinking about making the rising left trending traverse under the liberty cap ice cliff was making my hair stand up on the back of my neck.
We all skied beautiful corn snow down the final steep pitch from thumb rock. A quick ski across a snow bridge and a much quicker adrenaline pumping traverse under the ice cliff and across the schrund and finally a quick jaunt across the massive debris field back right towards the ridge and we were out of the line of fire. From here it was fairly easy routefinding back down the corridor of the Carbon over to the lower Curtis Ridge where we were camped.
This last bit even provided excellent skiing. Once off the glacier and back in camp at 17:00, we clicked poles and thanked each other for the experience together. Eric packed in a pint of delicious Jim Beam Black that we passed around while cooking dinner and staring at the route. We had such a nice evening resting in the sun and talking about the day with lots of stories and laughs into early night before passing out.

As we began the ski out the next day after a relaxing morning drinking coffee in the sun, we all felt so content with our experience from the previous day. Despite the fact that I again wasn’t able to top out on the route due to altitude related fatigue, I was happy with what we accomplished together. Now back at work, I keep thinking about that route and how I may have to go back and give it another go for the top. Thank you again Sky and many others for all of the fun times over the years. And thank you Eric, Tony, and Dan for the memorable trip.
The End

Thanks for all the kind words, Casey. But let's be realistic. I'm still an asshole.

I'm glad everyone stayed safe. Liberty Ridge is such an incredibly aesthetic line to ski. I'll probably want to ski it again one of these days. It sure would be nice to ski it continuously in its entirety.

Great write-up on an intense descent! I'm jealous!

great write up Casey, and nice job to all of you who made the trip. looks and sounds like you had an amazing time.

So awesome man. Wow. Incredible place. Perhaps one of these days I'll get up there whenever I get over my self imposed fear of that mountain's n side.

i agree with Sky, particularly the realistic part.

solid TR Casey, liked the personal, historical context/perspective.

I'm beyond jealous right now. Good on you guys! that's awesome.

funny story. I met Sky / found this website by originally googling "Liberty Ridge Ski Descent" and guess what the first result was?

Sick line. Thats gotta be one of the more technical descents around the PNW.

I enjoyed the write up too. Sweaty palms after reading. Excellent work on a big line.