We spent two nights up in the Cirque Maudite. We brought a tent in order to avoid the imminent bordel that would be found in all the nearby refuges. It was amazing, we actually slept.
The first day was spent cragging on some cliffs near the Aiguille du Midi to acclimatize and get our shit together. Dave and I had never climbed rock together. We needed to work his unintelligible British quacking into proper climbing speak.
The original plan was to go walk down the Vallee Blanche and hit the envers, because the Montenvers access train was closed. this was a stupid idea for many reasons.
In other news: I love alpine granite cragging.
Then as we approached The Spot, I saw it: throbbing in the sunlight, calling me.
The campsite was impeccable.
Le Dent du Géant
Sunrise the next day was beautiful.
Le Mont Blanc
Our goal was to climb the Voie Suisse. It is the most practical way up this completely overhanging tower of gnar. When we got the bottom it looked like it was going to be a long day. The route follows some 5.8-5.9 ledges then goes into some 5.9-5.10 cracks. After that it goes into a 5.11+ roof with some points of aid to pull on and finally some icy 5.8 to the summit.
We met an amicable Aussie/British team. They thought I would like the cracks. p1
Just after a pitch of some 5.10, Dave finishes a nice 5.9 handcrack. We swapped the beginning leads, then switched to block leads up higher.
Some alpine Juice.
Just under the 10c/A0 roof. The aid consisted of 20m of 20 year old tattered bristles hanging off a few century-old loose pins.
Even French-freeing it was hard.
The Tour Ronde with the Trident du Tacul in the foreground. P8.
Group photo. I got these sweet Prada shades off an immigrant on the beach in Italy. No wonder I'm now permanently snowblinded. P9.
A French team started up the route and caught up to us just in time to get pummeled by the collapsing summit mushroom. Did I mention the route is steep? Team A dropped some gear off the crux and I watched it land on the glacier 1500 feet below.
We turned around after the crux due to the showers of summit blocs that had already nearly killed us twice. The last pitch was covered in ice and fail. The challenges were surmounted, so we Maestri'd it.
Striking Pillars.
While on the way down, I saw these guys stoked out on top of the Trident. I tossed them a snickers.
We spent the night in our tents and witnessed another epic sunset and incredible light show in this magical zone.
Now for some chicken curry.
