I have been lusting for the pink goodness of Albuquerque's ripe watermelons for some time. The Sandias tower nearly 6,000 ft above the Duke City. I called Nick at some point last week and he told me about a plan he had with his buddy Mark to climb a route called Excitable Boys. No need to look at the route, I need to jump on that. Please allow me to join.
So how does this go? Squat in squalor, sip some coffee at 7 am and drive a paved road to 10,678 ft above sea level. This is New Mexico's version of the Black Canyon: top-down granite adventure climbing.
Mark linked p1 and p2 for a 58 meter pitch up a sustained 5.8 face splitter that got cruxy when it seamed into some face moves.
Nick on some fun climbing about 50 meters into it.
I linked p3 and p4 for a 45-50 meter affair with a fabulous corner having a cruxy 5.9+ move through a bulge after turning this roof, then some entertaining face climbing to a fat ledge.
Mark pulls through the aforementioned cruxy bulge.
After some third-classing up a gully, Nick drew this awesome 50+ meter pitch that started with a 5.9 bulge into an offwidth.
I took a video of Nick cruising up some offwidth after the roof.
Mystical object
Then we hiked over to the ultra classic top pitch of a climb called Second Coming. Two climbers were just getting ready to climb it. We were nice enough to wait to rappel to the ledge, but I paparazzi'd this guy Leonard cruising up this stellar 10- face crack
Nick and I did the ROSHAMBO for the pitch, but he defeated me on the rubber round for a 2-1 victory so he got to lead the pitch. LOVELY.
WOW this is my new backyard and it's climbable basically all year except for summer thunderstorms and winter blizzards!?
<3<3<3
Excitable Boys in the Sandias
- Diamond Dachshund
- from The Future
- Contact:
Re: Excitable Boys in the Sandias
Looks like something to get excitable about. Was it cold?
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- naomig
Re: Excitable Boys in the Sandias
I want to climb that watermelon too. Looks like fun rock.
- skykilo
- olikyks
- from Santa Fe
- Contact:
Re: Excitable Boys in the Sandias
It was cold in the shade then perfect when the sun finally made it to the western aspects of the climbs. A good place not to start too early.
Re: Excitable Boys in the Sandias
Looks fun dude.
Gotta say, I like this site Sky. People regularly posting from different countries is rad. Nice work putting it together.
Gotta say, I like this site Sky. People regularly posting from different countries is rad. Nice work putting it together.
- skykilo
- olikyks
- from Santa Fe
- Contact:
Re: Excitable Boys in the Sandias
I'm glad you like it. One of these days I'll make time for further improvements.
- DonJuanPakistan
- Trippin' travellin'.
- from Seattle, Washington
- Contact:
Re: Excitable Boys in the Sandias
Merely broccoli-powered delusions of grandeur.
- skykilo
- olikyks
- from Santa Fe
- Contact:
Re: Excitable Boys in the Sandias
They don't take too kindly to that broccoli-powered Praise Jah stuff here in the atomic city, yo. We toe the line. But delusions of grandeur sound likely enough.