I made a trip to Seattle and Vancouver last weekend. Thursday night, we met a group of friends at Zig Zag by Pike Place Market and had a blast. Thanks for coming, everybody: Naomi, Justin, Will, Eric, Ryan, Casey, Dave, Amar, Dave and Stephanie, Jason and Juya, Hannah, Jessica, Ross, Patricia and Lisa! Our server was amazing.
Naomi and I did some climbing at Index on Friday, but we were pretty spent from our evening on the town. Late Saturday morning, Naomi and I met Ryan and Louie at MEC in Vancouver. I bought a new pair of Anasazi velcro shoes. We were planning on a leisurely day but the forecast for Sunday didn't look as good so we decided to "go for it."
The four of us left Naomi's car at 2 pm, all headed for Angel's Crest. Naomi and I cruised up the first ten pitches of Angel's Crest in under four hours. Here's an obligatory AC shot of Naomi on lead.
Here I am hiking with the rope after the rappel, before the fixed line, one more pitch to the ledge traverse.
I was barefoot for this fixed rope that I thought might lead to High Plains Drifter
The fixed line put us below this burly looking corner.
I descended the fixed line and did some hiking until I found the right spot. All told, we lost almost an hour.
But High Plains Drifter is unmistakable. Yes!
Ryan and Louie are atop the lower Acrophobe Tower. The north walls are calling!
Louie got this shot of me belaying Naomi up High Plains Drifter from across the way.
What an awesome, sustained pitch!
Leading pitch two.
Naomi makes the move from the crack to the arete. The
arete, the OMG YES! razor-sharp arete. I like the effect of the flash, but it wasn't actually that dark.
I really wanted to climb High Plains Drifter. I'm still elated and I can't wait to do it again, so I can add it to the long list of awesome Squamish climbs I'd love to rererepeat.
We shuffled to the top of Angel's Crest to cheer Ryan and Louie through their finish.
Ryan looks stoked.
I hope you're happy with your first trip up The Chief, Louie. Angel's Crest leaving the car at 2 pm, I like it.
After the hike down and around the Chief and a quick drive to The Drive, we enjoyed late-night pizza, then Scotch and Whisky with Ziff until 4 am. It was very good to see you, Ziff.
Thanks for a wonderful weekend, everybody!