Mt Terror, North Buttress

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July 24-25, 2004

North Buttress of Terror Our approach too and approximate route on the North Buttress of Mount Terror

This climb was quite exhilirating for me. We managed to climb the North Buttress of Terror as three rope teams of two; it was excellent company and a festival-like atmosphere with our large group, in one of the more remote areas of the Cascades. I highly recommend this climb. McMillan Creek Cirque is an amazing place, with incomparable views of the north faces of the Southern Pickets and the Northern Pickets across the way. The approach is a piece of work, but the climb is wonderful if you like cruising through easy-but-technical alpine terrain. Out of 2,500 vertical feet, I'd estimate 1000' of 4th class, 1000' of low 5th that can be reasonably simul-climbed, and several pitches that include a short move or two of mid-5th to 5.7/8 climbing. Alpine adventure and ample scenery, that's the ticket.

arete at the top of mt terror Ross took this sweet shot of Jason climbing the arête to the false summit.

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Get bent for the ligne de pente